Easy SNES/SFC YUV component video!

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06-24-2012, 05:57 PM
Ace

RGB to Component box success!

Bump!

I got my two new BA6592F encoders last week and have just finished my first BA6592F-based RGB to Component converter box.

First, a look at the box (slightly out of focus):

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/360...xinputs.th.jpg

Two inputs, one for RGB (follows the same pinout as my Commodore 1084S monitor's RGB input, but with two Sync inputs due to one of my cables having Composite Sync wired at the wrong place. Not sure which, though). There's also a blue power LED sticking out the top.

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/4...xoutput.th.jpg

A VGA connector is at the output, and this is due to this cable:

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/148...ntcable.th.jpg

It's a VGA cable with red, green and blue RCA jacks on the other end. The cable has been pretty much useless since I got it, so I figured I'd put it to use for once rather than leaving it sitting around taking up space.

Here's the inside of the converter (quite crude, but this is just for personal use. If I were to sell converters, I'd build them using etched PCBs):

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/203...xcircui.th.jpg

Lastly, here's the box hooked up and ready to go (my RGB-modded PC Engine Duo-R is hooked up to it via my custom RGB cable):

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4...xwiredu.th.jpg

And here's Gradius running on that PC Engine Duo-R:

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/9...mponent.th.jpg

Unfortunately, shortly after I took the pictures for this post, the first BA6592F I used failed. Its Luminance became screwy and it always loses the blue. It's a good thing I bought two encoders; just swapped them out and all is good again.

Now, if I could just get a good single-layer PCB layout made, I'm gonna start selling some BA6592F-based RGB to Component converter boxes. Can't really give an estimate of how much said box would cost just yet, but when I do, I'll be sure to let you know.
06-24-2012, 07:29 PM
lumclaw

Hey. Off topic but about your sig... "Sega SG-1000 cartridge adapter to be assembled"

Glad to see interest in that. I've been hoping someone would build a proof of concept. My idea is the rear expansion port, if electrically compatible not even a PCB would be needed. Just wiring together 44 pin and 50 pin cartridge slots.
06-24-2012, 08:27 PM
TrekkiesUnite118

Here's a question. On most AV pin outs I've seen for consoles theres a +5V pin. Would it be possible to use that to power the thing and eliminate the need for an external power source?
06-24-2012, 10:32 PM
Ace

Quote:

Originally Posted by lumclaw

Hey. Off topic but about your sig... "Sega SG-1000 cartridge adapter to be assembled"

Glad to see interest in that. I've been hoping someone would build a proof of concept. My idea is the rear expansion port, if electrically compatible not even a PCB would be needed. Just wiring together 44 pin and 50 pin cartridge slots.

It should be electrically compatible. The expansion port is just the export Master System cartridge slot with the card-edge rather than the slot itself, right down to the pinout. Plus, I managed to get Hang-On II working on a standard Master System cartridge PCB. I'm gonna make my converter work through the existing cartridge slot.

At the same time, I think I'm gonna make a YM2413 passthrough cartridge. Plug that into your Master System, plug in a game with OPLL support, mix the audio from your console into the passthrough (not applicable on a Master System II that still has RF; you will need to modify your console to output the audio from the cartridge into the console) and play.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrekkiesUnite118

Here's a question. On most AV pin outs I've seen for consoles theres a +5V pin. Would it be possible to use that to power the thing and eliminate the need for an external power source?

It should be possible, but for consoles without a 5V pin, an external power source is a must. I would personally use an external 5V power supply, but I'll remember this. I'm gonna measure the current draw of the box and see if it would be possible to power it with the VCC off of a console.

Also, I thought of various different types of boxes I could sell:

-External power source, SCART in (with or without audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-Power source from console, SCART in (with or without audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-External power source, DB9 plug for RGB input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-Power source from console, DB9 plug for RGB input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-External power source, 4x RCA jacks for RGB+Sync input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-Power source from console, 4x RCA jacks for RGB+Sync input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-External power source, SCART in (with or without audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-Power source from console, SCART in (with or without audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-External power source, DB9 plug for RGB input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-Power source from console, DB9 plug for RGB input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-External power source, 4x RCA jacks for RGB+Sync input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-Power source from console, 4x RCA jacks for RGB+Sync input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)

All options will come with Component cables (and audio cables if your box is made with audio in/out), DB9 and RCA input boxes will come with adapters to use a SCART cable, and boxes with external power sources will come with a DC 5V power supply (you will have to supply your own SCART cable for those that want the SCART box).

First thing's first: I need to come up with a simple PCB layout for the box, then get a price for those boards, the transistors, resistors and caps used, the plugs, the project box in which the board will be housed in, and a batch of up to 100 BA6592Fs.
06-24-2012, 11:09 PM
TrekkiesUnite118

If you could power it from the console I'd say try to make a Sega Component cable. Basically a small box with one end being Stereo Audio with Component video and on the other side are three cables coming out with an 8-pin DIN connector for the Master System and Genesis 1, a 9-pin Mini-DIN for the Genesis 2, 3, and 32X, and a 10-Pin Mini-DIN for the Saturn. All three of those systems should have +5V on their pinouts and then you could have one cable for all three systems that gives you component out of a stock console.
06-24-2012, 11:16 PM
Drakon

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrekkiesUnite118

Here's a question. On most AV pin outs I've seen for consoles theres a +5V pin. Would it be possible to use that to power the thing and eliminate the need for an external power source?

Yeah I've built external encoder circuits that way. It's a snes multi av to cxa2075 circuit. All powered by the console itself. Sega genesis is seemingly the only console that doesn't like to have too many extra things powered by it. I've powered all kinds of things by the snes / nes built in 7805.
06-24-2012, 11:22 PM
Ace

How much current does a pre-VA7 Genesis Model 1 draw? If it's too close to the 1.2A rating of the power supply, an external power source or a stronger power supply would be a better idea (in this case, I could supply a regulated multi-voltage power supply rated for up to 1.7A. I use this on my Twin Famicom and it's a damn good brick).

Now, I'm gonna have one more problem: hook up all my consoles with RGB video to this converter. These are all the consoles I have with RGB outputs:

-Master System Model 1
-Genesis Model 1
-Japanese MegaDrive Model 1
-European MegaDrive Model 1
-Genesis Model 2
-Genesis 3
-CDX
-Saturn
-Dreamcast
-Super Famicom (not my launch-model Super NES; I already modified the thing for Component video out of the multi-A/V out in place of the RGB outputs)
-Super NES Mini (modded for RGB)
-Nintendo 64 (modded for RGB)
-PC Engine Duo-R (modded for RGB)
-PlayStation (SCPH-1001)
-PSone (the small redesign of the PlayStation)

I'm gonna need a 16-input switchbox for this (the extra input is for any other system I decide to use in RGB, which will either be my PC Engine SuperGrafx or an NES I'm converting into a 2-in-1 NES/Nintendo VS System with a single 2C03 RGB PPU). No way am I piggybacking multiple switchboxes together; that's gonna degrade the video signal like crazy. Already, I need one switchbox to select the appropriate Component input between my launch-model Super NES, my slim PlayStation 2 and my RGB to Component converter, so I'd like to have a single switchbox to switch between the 16 pieces of gaming hardware I'm gonna have the video going to the box.
06-24-2012, 11:29 PM
Drakon

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ace

How much current does a pre-VA7 Genesis Model 1 draw? If it's too close to the 1.2A rating of the power supply, an external power source or a stronger power supply would be a better idea (in this case, I could supply a regulated multi-voltage power supply rated for up to 1.7A. I use this on my Twin Famicom and it's a damn good brick).

I actually don't have a multimeter so I've never measured it but here's my experience..

My va6 (and I think my va5 does this too) gives me an annoying audio buzzing when I'm using too much power. I'm using a 850 ma famicom brick which is probably part of the issue but oh well. With the famicom brick I can wire up 1 cxa2075 circuit to the system with no issue. When I wired up two 2075 circuits I got audio buzzing. Also the mega everdrive pushes the system to the very edge when using the famicom brick. I powered 1 extra transistor and suddenly I got the audio buzzing. I disconnected the power to the rf box to clear that up (well it still buzzes when loading the region thing from the mega everdrive but otherwise it's fine). I usually use external power sources for stuff I build just because. I only recently built my cxa2075 circuit to get power from the rgb modded famicom itself.

To solve your switchbox problem....build a crapload of ba6592 circuits and internalize them in all your consoles. At first I did the multi rigging and over time I internalized circuits inside all of my consoles and my supergun.
06-24-2012, 11:32 PM
Ace

Going by what you just said, it may be safe to power an RGB to Component box using the 5V line from the Genesis' multi-A/V out when using Sega's original power supply. That can supply up to 1.2A of current.
06-24-2012, 11:36 PM
Drakon

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ace

Going by what you just said, it may be safe to power an RGB to Component box using the 5V line from the Genesis' multi-A/V out when using Sega's original power supply. That can supply up to 1.2A of current.

Got any ones for sale?

*edit*

I think I have one or two with a cord that lost a connection somewhere...probably could harvest a cord from something I don't care about and repair it.

*edit again*

okay I seem to have lost it...guess I need to find another...hmph...
06-25-2012, 12:01 AM
Ace

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drakon

Got any ones for sale?

Power supplies or Component boxes? Whatever you're asking about, I don't have either of them for sale.
06-25-2012, 12:24 AM
lumclaw

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ace

It should be electrically compatible. The expansion port is just the export Master System cartridge slot with the card-edge rather than the slot itself, right down to the pinout. Plus, I managed to get Hang-On II working on a standard Master System cartridge PCB. I'm gonna make my converter work through the existing cartridge slot.

No problem. I'll have to hire someone to build my idea. No market in it, doesn't mean I can't get one for personal use with enough of a bribe.
06-25-2012, 12:34 AM
Drakon

I meant a model 1 power brick. Anyway I just bought one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-10V-1200...item439b93f9b2
06-25-2012, 12:41 AM
Ace

That brick will do the job just fine.
06-25-2012, 01:08 PM
xelement5x

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drakon

I meant a model 1 power brick. Anyway I just bought one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-10V-1200...item439b93f9b2

If that's the same one I got (and it looks pretty similar) you'll need to modify the polarity on the plug for it to work on a stock unit.

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