Board is 2" x 2", and yes, I want to keep it through hole.
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When I first got Component video out of my launch-model Super NES, I had done many changes to the TV's settings via Service mode without really paying too much attention to my TV's default settings. I managed to get the settings back to what they might have been with the help of someone who has the same TV I have (Electrohome 27E510 CRT), and 66ohms actually makes the picture too dark and a bit too saturated. For some reason, direct Luminance in S-Video looks fine (this is how my S-Video cable is wired), but when using direct Luminance through Component, the colors seem too dull. A single 33ohm resistor is actually the way to go here.
I might try this at some point, though I'm not entirely sure why a PNP transistor is used in place of an NPN transistor. Still, I've got a few 100uF caps laying around, so I'll give this a shot in my external RGB to Component box.
I used the multi-A/V out for Component. Eliminated the red and blue outputs and wired B-Y and R-Y there. I was none too impressed with the Super NES' RGB, so not having RGB out of the multi-A/V out is not a big deal for me. Besides, I've got an RGB-modded Super NES Mini with VASTLY superior RGB to what a launch-model Super NES is capable of.
Soon, though, I will attempt to make a converter based off the Nintendo S-ENC/ROHM BA6594F encoder. I had tried something at first using the S-ENC from my SNS-CPU-GPM-01 Super NES (though now, the video has a MASSIVE yellow tint, so I'm going to remove the encoder in its entirety and just use RGB on this system as from what I've seen in a schematic showing the RGB output of the SNS-CPU-GPM-01 and SNS-CPU-GPM-02 motherboards, the RGB is amplified separately from the encoder, so it should still work even with no encoder in place).
What does the NES do when you run its RGB into my converter circuit?
Most of the trials yield only black screen with no indication that the tv is trying to accept any signal.
Only one trial yielded an image, but it was dark and half scrambled, weird.
I'm gonna look at it again this week and make note of which trial yielded the scrambled image.
can someone make one for me? I have a SNES.
If you have a Super NES with the BA6592F or S-ENC encoders, you could just use the Component outputs of the chips already in the console.
By the way, while sifting through UTSource, I discovered they actually stock the Nintendo S-ENC encoder. I'm gonna desolder the one on my SNS-CPU-GPM-01 Super NES (I'm getting all sorts of video issues since resoldering the chip in place) and see how to get good Component video out of it. I've asked for a quote to see how much one of those chips costs, and if the S-ENC could give the same results as the BA6592F with less/cheaper parts, I may ditch the BA6592F and use the S-ENC instead.
EDIT: Bummer... UTSource doesn't have any S-ENCs in stock. They do, however, have 100 BA6592Fs in stock for $1 each. So, with Lastcallhall's quote for 100 PCBs at $250, this would bring up the cost of parts I can't get locally to $350. The capacitors, transistors and resistors are all easily attainable locally, so I would like to get a group order for those 100 PCBs and 100 encoders.
Im in for $70.00 worth of parts (20 encoders and boards).
Also, shipping on the boards will be $25.00 (we can divide that after we get the order filled), and will take 14 days for manufacture. That should be the same time for the encoders, based on my last experience with UTSource. Not sure what their shipping would be, but I can't imagine it would be much.
Ace, did you want to start a group buy thread?
I'd probably be interested in 2 of them for my Saturn and Genesis if you get boards made for it and it comes out cheaper than getting those SCART to YUV convertors.
Depending on the final price, I could go for 5 to 10... at least 5.
If you're willing to use Wester Union or anything like that, I'll be in for 10 encoders.
I can get the boards locally...
Noted.
Shipping's $4 from UTSource, but sometimes, it can be SLOW AS HELL! I once had to wait for just over 3 weeks to get two YM2413s from them (and wait was nothing more than a waste of time because one chip was fake and the other didn't even work).
I didn't think of that, but I will start one at some point (not right now as I want to test the compatibility of my converter circuit as much as possible).
Speaking of which... Trekkies, you may want to make note of this: the converter works perfectly on the Sega Saturn. I just built a custom dual RGB/S-Video cable using a broken S-Video cable, a leftover DB9 (this carries the RGB) and some leftover red and white RCA cables. I would have never imagined the Saturn looking this good; 3D games looks really nice (they don't actually look too blocky - textures look REALLY good) and the 2D games... wow. The Sega Ages releases in particular look like if you were using an arcade monitor to play the games on; VERY vibrant colors and a very sharp picture. I've got some pictures of After Burner II, Daytona USA Championship Circuit Edition and Sega Rally Championship on my laptop, which I'll show later on as I don't have access to my laptop right now.
I tell you, after having used the Saturn in S-Video for so long and now using the Saturn in Component, S-Video just doesn't stack up to Component. In S-Video, the picture is quite a bit blurrier, dithered graphics tend to flicker, there's less color variation and 3D games look blockier (as a small note, my Saturn doesn't have the usual CXA1645, but rather some Fujitsu encoder whose model number I can't remember).
I never could get behind the svideo fandom. Beats composite obviously, but...