You're grounding something out. Make sure the heat shield isn't cutting into any wires or grounding out the signal altogether. I'd start with the top off and check continuity for everything.
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You're grounding something out. Make sure the heat shield isn't cutting into any wires or grounding out the signal altogether. I'd start with the top off and check continuity for everything.
To be sure, I wrapped the board I made in Electrical tape to prevent such occurances...its still doing it.
A-ha Ace, that must have been the problem!
I was building a PC Engine Duo rgb mod and my converter box didn't like the Composite Sync from it. So on a whim I built another LM1881 separator for it using the Composite video. It then synched no problem. The separator in my box was wired incorrectly! :o
So basically I fixed my LM1881 switch circuit on the BA6592F box, with the LM1881 enabled the Dreamcast syncs fine. Thus the cable was wired for Composite Video.
So that's two more consoles that are working with it!. Thanks Ace :ok:
Hi everyone.
First of all, my board is a 1995 NINTENDO SNSM-CPU-1CHIP -01. Im into the mod scene for a while but now im trying to do my first snes mod and i will admit that im having some trouble. First ive got a old S-Enc one from a used market, but in no way i could find the luma nor chroma signals. The sound of this unit was a mess, with too much buzzing, then i decided to return that unit back to where ive buy and exchange it for another. Now ive got a 1Chip unit and after some research, i found that it is one of the best picture quality fat snes revisions, then im a little happy about this.
Time for the MOD. Ive opened it up and made the usual cleaning and everything was fine through the normal AV conections and the image was very clean indeed. Then was the time for the mod. Ive opened it up again and first i try to get the Luma and Chroma from the cable connector pinout, bellow the board. Soldered the wires on pin 7 and 8, straight to the svideo jack (no caps or resistors was used) and got the other 2 grounds from the iron protective faceplate. But the image doesnt come out, only dark static with some ugly drawns from the game. After 2 days trying to solder, desolder and everything, i quit doing this svideo mod with no sucess.
Then it was the time to try the Component YPbPr one. Ive soldered the wires to the pins 1 (Red) and 4 (Blue) and got the Luma from pin 7. Got the ground from the iron faceplate too and soldered it to the tree jacks. The result was a very stable image but the red and blue dont seem to be right or the green are completely absent by the looks of it. Ive already tried to mix the pin 2 (Green) with the Luma line, but nothing has changed. Tried then to link only the pin 2 (Green) to the green component line, but the image becomes unstable and with the same wrong colors. Even tried to use the brothers 220 uf cap and 75 ohm resistor on each line, but resulted in the same pink screen. Three methods and the same results... a pink predominant screen.
Can someone help a fellow noob modder here? By the looks of it, my displays (two) arent compensating for the lack of green on the signal or am i wrong? Is there a easy way to fix this and solve this problem? I appreciate any help and i thank you guys in advance for the excelent work here!
Below are some images of what is happening to me:
http://imageshack.com/a/img580/1403/0nqy.jpgUploaded with ImageShack.com
And
http://imageshack.com/a/img59/9215/rpbf.jpgUploaded with ImageShack.com
Any help is very appreciated! ^^
The onechips have a ba6596f (sometimes labelled as "s-rgb") which doesn't output component video period. Luckily the onechip will produce better component video than the old two ppu systems when you use an external rgb to component device. Here's my personal favourite:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RG...item337dfa167b
The ideal component video quality will come from either a onechip model 1 snes or a snes mini / jr (also contains a onechip ppu) that uses an external rgb to component circuit. Certain rgb to component circuits produce sharper pictures than others. This device I linked above is currently the sharpest one I've found.
You can get around a lot of video flaws in onechip snes systems by doing a rgb bypass mod which is discussed in more detail in my forum. Unfortunately some schematics I posted were lost when my old image host went down. I did find this:
http://i.imgur.com/6BJtlZU.jpg
That's the pinout of the s-rgb chip. I can confirm they got the pinout correct for 5v, gnd, r / g / b inputs, sync in and subcarrier in. That's everything you need to bypass the encoder with either a better video encoder or a ths7314 if you only care about rgb. The bypass mod removes the translucent bar down the middle of the screen. Bypassing this encoder with a cxa2075 greatly improves the s-video quality.
As was previously stated, these 1Chip boards do not output Component video off their encoders. If you want Component video off a Super NES using its on-board video encoder, you must get one with either an SHVC-CPU-01, SNS-CPU-GPM-01 or SNS-CPU-GPM-02 motherboard. Their encoders output Component. All consoles with later motherboard revisions use S-RGB encoders which eliminate the Component outputs and replace them with amplified RGB instead.
Please be sure you are not misleading him. The CXA2075 is good at doing its job, but it will *not* help him get the component video he wants. What he needs is an early revision SNES board.
Following the development of this will be interesting: http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthr...g-the-BA7230LS
I do have one of the Snes revision with the proper encoder to do this '"simple Component mod" as is detailed in the original post of this thread.
However, I might add that I noted two problems with this "simple" component mod when I tried it.
1. The resulting signals are not strong enough and produce a somewhat washed out image unless you amp them. ( I fixed this with simple transistor amps )
2. There is a significant DC offset component in the outputs, which produce a very nasty flash on the screen when you hot connect. I tried to filter it out with some caps but it produced some weird effects, so this problem is not fixed
I have not worked on this further more but I consider those problems should be assessed before this mod is considered reliable.
I've used one of these. Seemed to do the trick fairly well when I fed it direct RGB, except...
1) the on-board 7805 gets extremely hot quickly
2) It had some problems with the color red, see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aQoBdbGgv4
Sorry to necro bump this thread, but this info seemed rather relevant.
First question, was wondering if so, and if you used the Snes model with the S-ENC chip?
Second question, did you notice that once audio was connected that the tint/brightness of the image dulled/changed some?
Third question, if this did happen to you, did you try removing ground from the audio lines?
During my testing I have found that the component mod on my snes revision SNS-CPU-GPM, is affected when audio is grounded. This means that using the official AV cable as an audio source causes the change in the image quality, unless you take the connector apart and snip ground from the audio wires you plan to use (and leave composite totally unconnected).
I have a 3rd party s-video cable however that does not seem to have the audio grounded at all, because when I use it for a audio source there is no image quality change.
I am not sure if this audio grounding issue affects other revisions that can be component modded, but it is rather annoying, because you can really tell the difference in video quality when you use a cable with audio that is grounded.
I did also tap audio directly off the snes pcb, and tapped ground for everything off pin 5 of the av port directly also to see if that would also have an effect on the image, and yes, it does still when ground is used on the audio lines. I figured I would try this to see if there would also be any effect.
Hope no one minds the thread bump but I thought this might be useful for others. I just did the component mod on my launch model SHVC-CPU-01 and tried a bunch of things (pull down resistors, etc.) and in the end, simplicity won out. I should specify that my specific model has the BA6592F and it is clearly labeled as such. All I ended up with, that turned out perfectly, was a 220uf capacitor on each the Pb and Pr lines (pin 1 and 24) and took the Luma from the S-video Luma on the multi-out. Please let me know if any of this could damage my equipment in some manner. Don't think so, but I'm no expert.
Unfortunately, I cannot get this thing to sync to my TCL L40FHDF11TA television over component. It has no issue with Genesis 240p over component with the HD Retrovision cables. I even wired up a 9pin mini din to my SNES to try those cables. No sync there either. Probably good I didn't invest in the SNES version of their cables. I'm hoping to eventually some day get my hands on one of the boards discussed in this thread. It should (maybe?) fix my sync issues.
The picture is amazing on my CRT. All the colors look correct. On my new capture card, a KWorld PVRTV-PE360, which I'm also testing with the following video, at default the colors are a bit washed out. It needed some tweaking. FWIW I put my capture settings at the end of the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34D6Zfszz5k