I just use an oscillator.
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I just use an oscillator.
Does it produce any interference in SVideo or composite?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lastcallhall
That's the Playchoice PPU, right? If you could find a cheap source for those...wow.
Not in any of the applications I've used it in.Quote:
Originally Posted by villahed94
Yes sir. That was my initial reaction when I found them on the site. I was so bummed when they came back with a quote for 0 parts. I did ask them to let me know if they ever get the parts back in stock so I'll post here if that's the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by GohanX
I was quoted for the standard RP2C02 (D revision) for $20 per chip (this is for just 1 chip - if you buy 10, they're $15 each). Those Ricoh parts don't come cheap and I expect the RP2C03B to cost just as much, if not more.
Still, it's a) cheaper than buying a PC-10 or Tennis/Duckhunt board and b) you don't have to gut an original PC-10 board to get it.
Who's to say UTSource isn't gutting those boards for their RP2C03Bs to begin with? That may be why they don't have any RP2C03Bs in stock: they ran out of PCBs to get the RP2C03Bs from. Some of the YM2413s I got from them were used (they had noticeably bent pins and dust on them).
On that note, beware of fake Yamaha chips. These guys have a lot of them. I ended up with 4 fake YM2413s and a fake YM2413B from UTSource (on top of a faulty genuine Yamaha chip).
Whats the difference between the fake ones and the real ones?
You raise an interesting point. I just assumed they were on the up and up as far as chip suppliers go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace
What about YM2151s?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace
TmEE let me know of multiple Yamaha chips for which there are fakes floating around:
-YM2413
-YM2612
-YM3438
-YM2151
-YM3812
-YMF262
Some fake Yamaha DACs exist as well such as the YM3012. If you have YM2151s on hand, let me see them and I'll tell you if they're fake or not.
It's mainly the percussion that's different. The main notes are pretty much identical, but the percussion comes out wrong. An example is the Space Harrier theme in the v2.1 Master System BIOS. The percussion on a real YM2413 sounds like a smooth, elongated hit whereas the fake YM2413 outputs the percussion as a hard, high-frequency smack sound. Some instruments are quieter on the fake YM2413s too. The fakes I have were made in 1993, 1998 (3 of them) and 2001 (YM2413B). They're also very noisy compared to the real chips (MUCH higher noise floor).Quote:
Originally Posted by TrekkiesUnite118
OK, I'll take pics of them later...
I want to clear up some misconeptions in this thread about the S/PDIF mod. The chip used is the CS8406 chip, it does take digital audio from the SNES and format it to the S/PDIF standard. I have done it, here are pics:
http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewt...p?f=25&t=32570
Yes the audio does sound better. It has greater dynamic range, slightly more clarity, and no 60hz hum thats in the analog audio. The better your equipment, the more of a difference you will notice. A word of caution. The SNES outputs a digital signal at 31.5 kHz. The standard is 32 kHz. This means there's a possibility your receiver will not accept the SNES digital output. This problem is also why we cannot mod the N64 for S/PDIF, because it outputs a bunch of wild sample rates.
I have also completed the YPbPr mod on my SNES. Mine has an S-ENC chip. At racketboy we have concluded that any SNES chip before the S-RGB is compatible with this mod. Some chips appear to perform better than others, and its possible in the end there will be several versions of this modfication depending on your S-ENC chip. Here's that thread:
http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewt...37716&start=80
The chip used in this guide, the CS8405A-CS, is an ADC-type audio chip. It takes analog and converts it to digital...
The datasheets for both chips are very clear. The CS8405A accepts audio and digital data, which is then multiplexed, encoded and driven onto a cable.
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe...S/CS8405A.html
The CS8406 is just and updated version. The original chip the mod uses is impossible to find these days.
Bump!
I got my two new BA6592F encoders last week and have just finished my first BA6592F-based RGB to Component converter box.
First, a look at the box (slightly out of focus):
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/360...xinputs.th.jpg
Two inputs, one for RGB (follows the same pinout as my Commodore 1084S monitor's RGB input, but with two Sync inputs due to one of my cables having Composite Sync wired at the wrong place. Not sure which, though). There's also a blue power LED sticking out the top.
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/4...xoutput.th.jpg
A VGA connector is at the output, and this is due to this cable:
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/148...ntcable.th.jpg
It's a VGA cable with red, green and blue RCA jacks on the other end. The cable has been pretty much useless since I got it, so I figured I'd put it to use for once rather than leaving it sitting around taking up space.
Here's the inside of the converter (quite crude, but this is just for personal use. If I were to sell converters, I'd build them using etched PCBs):
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/203...xcircui.th.jpg
Lastly, here's the box hooked up and ready to go (my RGB-modded PC Engine Duo-R is hooked up to it via my custom RGB cable):
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4...xwiredu.th.jpg
And here's Gradius running on that PC Engine Duo-R:
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/9...mponent.th.jpg
Unfortunately, shortly after I took the pictures for this post, the first BA6592F I used failed. Its Luminance became screwy and it always loses the blue. It's a good thing I bought two encoders; just swapped them out and all is good again.
Now, if I could just get a good single-layer PCB layout made, I'm gonna start selling some BA6592F-based RGB to Component converter boxes. Can't really give an estimate of how much said box would cost just yet, but when I do, I'll be sure to let you know.
Hey. Off topic but about your sig... "Sega SG-1000 cartridge adapter to be assembled"
Glad to see interest in that. I've been hoping someone would build a proof of concept. My idea is the rear expansion port, if electrically compatible not even a PCB would be needed. Just wiring together 44 pin and 50 pin cartridge slots.
Here's a question. On most AV pin outs I've seen for consoles theres a +5V pin. Would it be possible to use that to power the thing and eliminate the need for an external power source?
It should be electrically compatible. The expansion port is just the export Master System cartridge slot with the card-edge rather than the slot itself, right down to the pinout. Plus, I managed to get Hang-On II working on a standard Master System cartridge PCB. I'm gonna make my converter work through the existing cartridge slot.Quote:
Originally Posted by lumclaw
At the same time, I think I'm gonna make a YM2413 passthrough cartridge. Plug that into your Master System, plug in a game with OPLL support, mix the audio from your console into the passthrough (not applicable on a Master System II that still has RF; you will need to modify your console to output the audio from the cartridge into the console) and play.
It should be possible, but for consoles without a 5V pin, an external power source is a must. I would personally use an external 5V power supply, but I'll remember this. I'm gonna measure the current draw of the box and see if it would be possible to power it with the VCC off of a console.Quote:
Originally Posted by TrekkiesUnite118
Also, I thought of various different types of boxes I could sell:
-External power source, SCART in (with or without audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-Power source from console, SCART in (with or without audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-External power source, DB9 plug for RGB input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-Power source from console, DB9 plug for RGB input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-External power source, 4x RCA jacks for RGB+Sync input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-Power source from console, 4x RCA jacks for RGB+Sync input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), 3x RCA jacks for Component output (5x with audio)
-External power source, SCART in (with or without audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-Power source from console, SCART in (with or without audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-External power source, DB9 plug for RGB input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-Power source from console, DB9 plug for RGB input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-External power source, 4x RCA jacks for RGB+Sync input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
-Power source from console, 4x RCA jacks for RGB+Sync input (with optional RCA jacks for audio), VGA connector at the output for use with a VGA to Component cable (with optional RCA jacks for audio)
All options will come with Component cables (and audio cables if your box is made with audio in/out), DB9 and RCA input boxes will come with adapters to use a SCART cable, and boxes with external power sources will come with a DC 5V power supply (you will have to supply your own SCART cable for those that want the SCART box).
First thing's first: I need to come up with a simple PCB layout for the box, then get a price for those boards, the transistors, resistors and caps used, the plugs, the project box in which the board will be housed in, and a batch of up to 100 BA6592Fs.
If you could power it from the console I'd say try to make a Sega Component cable. Basically a small box with one end being Stereo Audio with Component video and on the other side are three cables coming out with an 8-pin DIN connector for the Master System and Genesis 1, a 9-pin Mini-DIN for the Genesis 2, 3, and 32X, and a 10-Pin Mini-DIN for the Saturn. All three of those systems should have +5V on their pinouts and then you could have one cable for all three systems that gives you component out of a stock console.
Yeah I've built external encoder circuits that way. It's a snes multi av to cxa2075 circuit. All powered by the console itself. Sega genesis is seemingly the only console that doesn't like to have too many extra things powered by it. I've powered all kinds of things by the snes / nes built in 7805.Quote:
Originally Posted by TrekkiesUnite118
How much current does a pre-VA7 Genesis Model 1 draw? If it's too close to the 1.2A rating of the power supply, an external power source or a stronger power supply would be a better idea (in this case, I could supply a regulated multi-voltage power supply rated for up to 1.7A. I use this on my Twin Famicom and it's a damn good brick).
Now, I'm gonna have one more problem: hook up all my consoles with RGB video to this converter. These are all the consoles I have with RGB outputs:
-Master System Model 1
-Genesis Model 1
-Japanese MegaDrive Model 1
-European MegaDrive Model 1
-Genesis Model 2
-Genesis 3
-CDX
-Saturn
-Dreamcast
-Super Famicom (not my launch-model Super NES; I already modified the thing for Component video out of the multi-A/V out in place of the RGB outputs)
-Super NES Mini (modded for RGB)
-Nintendo 64 (modded for RGB)
-PC Engine Duo-R (modded for RGB)
-PlayStation (SCPH-1001)
-PSone (the small redesign of the PlayStation)
I'm gonna need a 16-input switchbox for this (the extra input is for any other system I decide to use in RGB, which will either be my PC Engine SuperGrafx or an NES I'm converting into a 2-in-1 NES/Nintendo VS System with a single 2C03 RGB PPU). No way am I piggybacking multiple switchboxes together; that's gonna degrade the video signal like crazy. Already, I need one switchbox to select the appropriate Component input between my launch-model Super NES, my slim PlayStation 2 and my RGB to Component converter, so I'd like to have a single switchbox to switch between the 16 pieces of gaming hardware I'm gonna have the video going to the box.
I actually don't have a multimeter so I've never measured it but here's my experience..Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace
My va6 (and I think my va5 does this too) gives me an annoying audio buzzing when I'm using too much power. I'm using a 850 ma famicom brick which is probably part of the issue but oh well. With the famicom brick I can wire up 1 cxa2075 circuit to the system with no issue. When I wired up two 2075 circuits I got audio buzzing. Also the mega everdrive pushes the system to the very edge when using the famicom brick. I powered 1 extra transistor and suddenly I got the audio buzzing. I disconnected the power to the rf box to clear that up (well it still buzzes when loading the region thing from the mega everdrive but otherwise it's fine). I usually use external power sources for stuff I build just because. I only recently built my cxa2075 circuit to get power from the rgb modded famicom itself.
To solve your switchbox problem....build a crapload of ba6592 circuits and internalize them in all your consoles. At first I did the multi rigging and over time I internalized circuits inside all of my consoles and my supergun.
Going by what you just said, it may be safe to power an RGB to Component box using the 5V line from the Genesis' multi-A/V out when using Sega's original power supply. That can supply up to 1.2A of current.
Got any ones for sale?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace
*edit*
I think I have one or two with a cord that lost a connection somewhere...probably could harvest a cord from something I don't care about and repair it.
*edit again*
okay I seem to have lost it...guess I need to find another...hmph...
Power supplies or Component boxes? Whatever you're asking about, I don't have either of them for sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakon
No problem. I'll have to hire someone to build my idea. No market in it, doesn't mean I can't get one for personal use with enough of a bribe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace
I meant a model 1 power brick. Anyway I just bought one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-10V-1200...item439b93f9b2
That brick will do the job just fine.
If that's the same one I got (and it looks pretty similar) you'll need to modify the polarity on the plug for it to work on a stock unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakon
Thanks for the heads up. I found a guide that says the polarity for the famicom brick (works with the genesis) is center pin is negative. I guess I'll swap the polarity first and find some crappy system to test it on first.Quote:
Originally Posted by xelement5x
I performed a current test many, many years ago on my Mega Drive 1. From memory it was around 600-700mA. I am about to head of to work soon (it's 4.45am here) when I get a chance I can do a current test on a few MD/Genesis variations if you like? I can also do PAL SNES, I got a couple of US SNES's but due to their dicky DC plug design it might make it a bit awkward. Also got 1 Super Famicom, I don't know much about SFC's but this has a huge "growth" near the AV port, not sure what this is as I have never seen it in a PAL console, but I can test that too.
Whatever works better relative to cost. I doubt there's much choice except commission one. I've never heard of any mass produced pin adapter for Japan cartridges on export consoles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace
The parts to build my idea, are mass produced however. These two slots have known part numbers which should be compatible.
Late response, but if you can, Omp, measure the current draw of as many Genesis variants you can. It would be of great help to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by omp
I tested one as I had a quick minute. Mega Drive model 1 VA6 575mA @ 9vdc.
Which brings me to, does it matter to you if I test these with a switch mode regulated power supply rated at 9vdc 1 amp?
If I test these with the 1 power supply it will give a more accurate comparison.
Allthough, I may have an original power supply somewhere.
Test with both. I personally use an original Sega power supply on my Genesis Model 1s, so it would help me to know the current draw with Sega's original power supply.
Ok I found some time to test my model 1's tonight.
Used a stock 10v 1.2amp power supply and the 9v 1amp switchmode regulated power supply. Jolly interesting to see that the stock power supply had 12Vdc at the tip when the console was on, I honestly thought it would be less.
This was just a quick test, so all consoles were "cold". I did test the first VA6 for 15mins where it dropped approx. 10mA over this time. So in my opinion all times listed are worse case. Variations could be due to things like Capacitor degradation etc? Also tested original LED vs modern "blue" LED the blue LED drew approx 0.05mA less than the red.
All consoles are stock apart from 1st one.
MD1 VA6 (region mod, overclock, blue LED and AV out)
10V P/S= 0.585A (measured 12v at the terminals) 9v P/S= 0.580
MD1 VA6
10V P/S= 0.654A 9v P/S= 0.650A
MD1 VA4
10V P/S= 0.775A 9v P/S= 0.773A
JPN VA5
10V P/S= 0.717A 9V P/S= 0.710A
GEN VA6
10V P/S= 0.826A 9V P/S= 0.820A
GEN VA7
10V P/S= 0.585A 9V P/S= 0.576A
Later on I can test some model 2's, I have a MD2 VA0, MD2 VA1.8, GEN2 VA2.3 (x2) and a GEN2 VA3. With these I don't have an original MD2 power supply, so I will use the model 1 power supply (it goes through a terminal block and multi-meter to a tpe 2 DC plug) and the same 9V 1amp power supply.
Not sure when I can get onto that as I have a bit to do, but I will get onto it when I can.
Ace, so those chips listed as "BA6592F" on UTSource are the real encoders?
I wouldn't buy anything from UTsource I bought some cxa2075s from them that flat out didn't work.
They're real, all right, although as I mentioned, one of the encoders was faulty and would no longer output amplified Luminance or any blue. The other one works fine, but this one doesn't like it when I hook up my VA3 Genesis Model 1 I modified the EXT port to serve as a second RGB output. For whatever reason, when I hook up my PC Engine Duo-R, the converter works flawlessly, but as soon as I hook up that Genesis (which is the only other console for which I have an RGB cable), after a few minutes, the video gets blue lines and the blue wants to stop working (yet I still have some blue, though it gets darker where those lines show up). Even weirder is how the converter keeps screwing up the blue AFTER I unplug the Genesis from the RGB input, yet when I let the converter sit for a few minutes or feed a different RGB source into it, the blue lines eventually stop. Something in the blue output of that Genesis must be screwing up the converter. I'm gonna have to buy some U-shaped 8-pin DINs or find a way to make a U-shaped 8-pin DIN out of a C-shaped 8-pin DIN as I can't find any locally. Right now, though, I'm in New Hampshire (Hampton) until Saturday, so if anyone knows of a good electronics shop around here, let me know and I'll check it out, see if they have any U-shaped 8-pin DINs (I could use two of them, one for my dual BIOS and FM-modded Master System, the other for my Genesis Model 1s).Quote:
Originally Posted by villahed94
What I would NEVER buy from UTSource is the Yamaha YM2413. I got 5 YM2413s and one YM2413B from them, and all but one chip was a counterfeit clone. To make matters worse, one of the chips, which may have been legitimate, was dead. It wouldn't matter so much if it wasn't for the fact the clone chips have some audible differences and a CONSIDERABLY higher noise floor than the real Yamaha chips (ask TmEE about this and he'll tell you everything). They do sometimes get legitimate YM2413s, but I still wouldn't buy a YM2413 or YM2413B from them. I always got junk.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakon
The other parts I got from them, though, were all fine (some 2SK2500 MOSFETs, MAX4451 dual op-amps, Yamaha YM3438 (a real Yamaha chip) and a UMC YM2413 clone which is the UM3567; still have to get this thing to output proper audio). Just beware of phony Yamaha FM Synthesis chips and DACs. Generally, if they're made in 1991 or earlier, they're real. Later than that, odds are they're counterfeit.
What I hate most about UTSource is inconsistency with the stock they show on their site and their actual stock. Case and point: they show they have a decent stock of 2C03 RGB PPUs, yet when I asked for a quote, they had none. Same with the YM2413 and YM2413B; they show they have some in stock, but ask for a quote, and they don't have any, yet they do have those same chips listed for sale on eBay, and recently, I asked to get a quote for a 27C160 EPROM as I saw they had a pretty good stock, but they didn't actually have any in stock. What gives?