RGB to component converter issues!

Why is so much of my gaming gear having problems all of the sudden!? :cry: First my 32X dies, then my Saturn stops reading discs, now this! :bang: /rant

Anyway, I had my Genesis and Sega CD model 1 powered on, with the bios running. I was reaching for my copy of Sonic CD so I could play it and when I looked at the screen I noticed all the colors were all the sudden screwed up beyond belief! All the black areas had taken on a olive green tint and everything white had become purple! :shock:

I tried using composite and everything looked fine, then I tried hooking up a DVD player to the TV using the same cables and component inputs and everything worked fine. So I know it's the RGB-YUV converter that's giving me issues.

(search 220698773448 on ebay, it should bring up the exact converter that I bought.)

Don't have much to say about the RGB converter, but what symptom does the 32X have?

Sound issues, picture issues, hissing noises, and high pitched squeal noises. My first guess is its probably another one that needs a recap job.

It sounds like the green is out of whack on the converter or the Genesis. A white image with the green removed makes purple. But it can't be completely gone since you get the olive color.

The converter should have pots on the inside for adjusting R G and B values. You might have to figure out which one is G and fiddle with it.

*edit*
Although, if possible, I'd hook another system up to it to make sure before fiddling with the RGB pots. Preferably something that uses a different RGB cable.

First of all, I am sorry for all that bad luck. Really.


Like two years ago I faced several consecutive problems with electronic stuff in my house and after a while I realized that the electrical network was fucking up everything. If I were you, I would try to use stabilizers with the consoles and other stuff (like TV) to see if the "bad luck" goes away.
That worked with me.

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Originally Posted by GohanX

It sounds like the green is out of whack on the converter or the Genesis. A white image with the green removed makes purple. But it can't be completely gone since you get the olive color.

The converter should have pots on the inside for adjusting R G and B values. You might have to figure out which one is G and fiddle with it.

*edit*
Although, if possible, I'd hook another system up to it to make sure before fiddling with the RGB pots. Preferably something that uses a different RGB cable.

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I've already been messing with the potentiometers and they really don't have much affect. I don't have another RGB cable, but I do have another Model 1 Genesis that I can try it with. Though if there were some kind of problem with the RGB levels in the Genesis itself, wouldn't that also have an affect on composite video too? Because doesn't the genesis just convert RGB to composite internally?

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Originally Posted by AlecRob

I've already been messing with the potentiometers and they really don't have much affect. I don't have another RGB cable, but I do have another Model 1 Genesis that I can try it with. Though if there were some kind of problem with the RGB levels in the Genesis itself, wouldn't that also have an affect on composite video too? Because doesn't the genesis just convert RGB to composite internally?

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As I understand it the Composite part is separate and will not show the same problems as the RGB output. I have a similar RGB to Component converter and haven't had any problems aside from it not wanting to sync with my HDTV, works fine with my SDTV though. I agree with GohanX that it sounds like one of the Component colors is out. Switching out the console, the cable(s) and the converter would be the first process I would take.

You've probably already got this, but I would make sure that all of these things were behind good working higher end surge protectors and that not too many devices are plugged into one outlet.

I tried another Genesis, so that narrows it down to being a problem with either the converter or the SCART cable. I'll fiddle with it more tomorrow, I'm falling asleep and i've got stuff to do tomorrow morning! ;)

Hopefully I can get this resolved without too much of a headache. I was really wanting to play some Ecco the Dolphin...:Panda:

Okay well today i tried using a different genesis, and the same issue was there. At the moment i'm pretty much at a loss as to what to do... Anybody have any ideas?

Perhaps the converter has a cracked joint or some similar failure inside. Does the seller offer a return/replacement policy?

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Originally Posted by AlecRob

Sound issues, picture issues, hissing noises, and high pitched squeal noises. My first guess is its probably another one that needs a recap job.

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When the 32X I currently have was acting really strange (MD/32X games didn't work, SCD games had slow sound and garbled analog-y graphics), I disassembled it and somehow the 32X was working normally again. Perhaps something inside is being shorted? The 32X is really simple to disassemble.

I have the same unit. It's incredibly simplistic inside. You can easily take the top case off to inspect for some damage.

I opened mine up to solder the stereo audio to it so I could get audio from the scart cable.

I fully disassembled my 32X, right down to the cartridge end of the system, which really doesn't take much effort to take apart or re-assemble. Just a bit of plastic/PCB alignment and some small screws. I then tried my 32X without the plastic shells and RF shields and it was back to normal. I don't really know what was the problem...

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Originally Posted by sheath

As I understand it the Composite part is separate and will not show the same problems as the RGB output.

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As a matter of fact, CXA before rgb out uses RGB + sync signals to produce composhit and s-video. So in theory if some color is broken in rgb, you can at least test if CXA is broken with composhit cable and see if you get full colors. But like mine md2 I am wondering where is my red signal and need to test these same tests and prolly test some components in red line but there are not many components to poke with and speaking cxa as rgb is coming straight away from CXA to 9pin connector so I am wondering this same issue atm. So the correct answer is if one color in rgb is gone you are in deep shit as no output will work as they should be, no comp, no s/video and definitely no RF.

Well, I was examining the guts of the thing to see if there was any internal damage, and i blew out a little bit of dust that had somehow gotten in there.

alas, it works! i don't know how though... hopefully it wont start acting up again.

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Originally Posted by AlecRob

Well, I was examining the guts of the thing to see if there was any internal damage, and i blew out a little bit of dust that had somehow gotten in there.

alas, it works! i don't know how though... hopefully it wont start acting up again.

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Dust can cause all kinds of shenanigans. I am glad it was that simple.

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Originally Posted by MEGADRIVE Jeroi

As a matter of fact, CXA before rgb out uses RGB + sync signals to produce composhit and s-video. So in theory if some color is broken in rgb, you can at least test if CXA is broken with composhit cable and see if you get full colors. But like mine md2 I am wondering where is my red signal and need to test these same tests and prolly test some components in red line but there are not many components to poke with and speaking cxa as rgb is coming straight away from CXA to 9pin connector so I am wondering this same issue atm. So the correct answer is if one color in rgb is gone you are in deep shit as no output will work as they should be, no comp, no s/video and definitely no RF.

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That is interesting, I guess I had it backwards. Most of the discussion I have thumbed through is about the "jail bars" issue, I guess if RGB has it so will Composite.

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Originally Posted by sheath

That is interesting, I guess I had it backwards. Most of the discussion I have thumbed through is about the "jail bars" issue, I guess if RGB has it so will Composite.

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No you are again wrong. The jailbars are caused by the Subcarrier clock signal input on CXA. That affects Blue line and composhite/s-video. It has been said that when lifting subcarrier pin off, RGB gets perfect color where is no jailbars at all (even tho they were very not visible in first place) altho then you lose all the rest output methods (that means no composhit, s-video and RF).

Is it worth it to get a SCART to component yuv converter or should i just get a S-Video mod which would better or cheaper