Consolized GG custom made case... thoughts?

Instead of pinching MaxWars thread, I thought I would start my own.

I have had another go at the case tonight after having more of a think about it.

Round one I wasn't to smart as I just did it on a whim, round 2 I drew the main components which are

1/GG main Board
2/GG cart
3/GG power board
4/GG sound board
5/SMS Cart

Wanting to keep everything on one level the (footprint) size increased a smidge from 240 x 140 to 240 x 170.

Agreeing with AlecRob, may as well stick a SMS slot in there as well, because 1/it makes the 2nd controller port functional with SMS games and 2/Because we can.

I have put the GG cart slot in a way where it won't need to be removed, spun around and doing the hookey-pookey.

The controller ports fit in the gap where the screen used to be.

The power board is on the left hand side when looking from the rear (as per standard).

The audio port I have allowed the hole to be big enough for the 8 din size, so it is plenty big enough for 9 pin mini-din. There should be room on the other sideif folk want to add s-video and/or std AV ports.

The bad bits from what I can see, is that the audio and power board connections to the main board will have to be lengthened since they are now opposite each other and at the back of the console. Looking at the main board when you take the back cover off a standard GG with the cart slot facing you the power board is at the top left, audio top right. This design makes the power board from the cart slot lower right and the audio board lower left.

The top case is not complete, I have to do

1/SMS cart flap and it's case
2/cut out for power on switch (got to choose a switch)
3/button for start button, I am thinking of putting a ledge on the cart slot flap case for a tactile button with a fabricated button pushing on that, similar to SMS1.
4/?

Then I got to do the bottom case, since I have drawn the boards etc I could work out where the stand off's go.

Not sure what I could do with the SMS cart edge connector, I will have to contact Tim to see where he got his from.

At the moment this is all a pipe dream, cost and the ability for the 3D printer to do it will see how we go.

so....friggen.....sexy looking..... Also it's convenient being able to spread the guts out of a portable system. We also need a sticker design as well as a choice of colour for the plastic.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Drakon

... choice of colour for the plastic.

---

What about black?


Also, (looks awesome btw) an idea here, maybe it's not the most convenient solution to have the controller ports right below the GG cart slot. Would likely interfere with ease of removal/insertion of the carts me thinks. Maybe have the controllers on the right side, à la Genesis?

That's seriously awesome. I wish I could be more useful in terms of making graphics or the engineering side of it. I'd gladly help out how I could to make this a reality. Would be awesome to sit down and play Sword of Hyjal without squinting.

Either put the controller ports on the right, or put them on either side of the GG cart slot. One on the left and the other on the right.

Concerning the power board being in a less than ideal spot... Maybe you could try putting the DC jack on the far right of the case? That would work too.

This is looking so awesome though, awesome work omp!

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instanc...x/26176789.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Raja

That's seriously awesome. I wish I could be more useful in terms of making graphics or the engineering side of it. I'd gladly help out how I could to make this a reality. Would be awesome to sit down and play Sword of Hyjal without squinting.

---

Thanks for the feedback people.

I will see what I can do about moving the controller ports, the reason why they are there is because of the length of the DB9 port intruding onto the GG main board. I have 2 options.
1/Either increase the overall height of the case. I could decrease the height of the top part of the case (the bottom portion) as the boards sit "up" in this part of the case so the GG cart slot lines up. I could then put the controller port holes in the lower part of the case, same as the SMS2. So it would be a bit of model 1 and model 2 looking. This would be preferred as 1/it easier to modify the existing dwg (lol!) 2/see below
2/Increase the length of the case so I have room to put the controller port beside the GG main board. This wouldn't be ideal as it would make the case wider, as it is it 240mm and I would have to make it (off the top of my head) 280mm minimum. This would only lengthen one side and I was keen to have the cart slots in the middle of the case.

With concerns to the power port, if I do move the power board (by moving the controller ports, I make a bit of real estate to fit the daughter boards in the GG main board cutout where the screen used to be) I could fit a regular SMS power supply port. BUT the GG has 2 types of DC port MD1 size and MD2 size. I would go the MD1 size me-thinks.

I am going to try to go to Jaycar today to get some more parts.

Cheers Guys.

Went down to Jaycar today and bought 2 different types of latching push button switches. The one on the right looks to be the same/similar to the one the Japanese guy used. The only thing I don't like about it is, that it when you press the button it returns back to the out position (ie the button doesn't stay in). The one on the left illuminates when pressed on (at 12v but it may work at a lower voltage, gotta check it out). The button stays in on this one when pressed.

So which switch would get the nod?

http://i.imgur.com/Yo0Xg.jpg

Another option is am illuminated slide switch

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SS0825

uhg, right angle ports, I like the straight ones personally.

I think omp bought the angled port to experiment in ways to reduce the space needed at the back of the port, for case design purpose. I usually use straight ones too but then i dont usually have such physical constraints.

The button that does not stay pushed is a no go, honestly, skip this one.
The one with the led is nice. You say it uses 12v? I guess there must be a resistance inside. If the switch can be opened and worked in... Then one could lower the built in resistance and have it work on 5v. Then I would consider removing the onboard default LED of the GG and have this awesome glowy button instead :)

I think it should be more asymmetrical, like the SMS. With the cartridge slot on the top right, card slot (GG slot) underneath, and power button on the left. Basically a SMS case but slightly smaller and with the card slot shaped to accept GG carts.

Also, this thing should have the FM sound expansion included in it!

Well there's a surprise, I thought the right angled type would be more popular! I do have some straight through ones (as can be seen in the image I put in MaxWars thread).

My thought was to have the DB9 ports mounted in the bottom half of the case. The top half of the case would then sit over these connectors. Having the right angled ones meant they could have gone on their own circuit board and mounted securely. The straight through ones could be used, I would have to beef up the plastic (the case is 2mm thick atm) around the connector and have it screwed from the back with some short screws. The straight through DB9 connectors will take less room depth wise. If I am going to move the controller ports to the bottom of the case, I guess the straight through wouldn't be a problem. I am hoping to have minimal components mounted in the top half of the case, apart from the start button.

I am glad you like the illuminated button better, the other one looks erm "cheap". I will test this illuminated one and see if it will work on available power from the GG (maybe the un-regulated power source maybe the key?). The only thing is the cost (Jaycar's price) $2 for the black switch vs $13 for the illuminated one. I should be able to recess this switch as well.

I will probably leave the layout for the cartridge as it is. Reason being is the GG cart slot would have to be removed and shifted, this would then add 90mm (minimum) for the GG cart slot to fit beside the GG main board. At the moment the width of the console is 240mm, adding 90mm would take it to 330mm which is only 30mm shy of a Model 1 case. I can't move the board to far to the left as it would leave no room for the screw down posts, I would have to bump that side out again and it would be a case of chasing the case.

The FM board can be fitted as Viletim shows here http://www.smspower.org/forums/viewt...sion&start=150 (scroll down). The only thing is 2 games won't work Wonder Boy 3 and Time Soldiers as these need 2 extra signals that aren't there (but as Tim states you can add one of them). There was an old trick with his first, un-modified revision FM board where you hold left (and one of the button's?) on controller 1 when you turn the console on. Not sure if this would work though, probably not.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by omp

Thanks for the feedback people.

I will see what I can do about moving the controller ports, the reason why they are there is because of the length of the DB9 port intruding onto the GG main board. I have 2 options.
1/Either increase the overall height of the case. I could decrease the height of the top part of the case (the bottom portion) as the boards sit "up" in this part of the case so the GG cart slot lines up. I could then put the controller port holes in the lower part of the case, same as the SMS2. So it would be a bit of model 1 and model 2 looking. This would be preferred as 1/it easier to modify the existing dwg (lol!) 2/see below
2/Increase the length of the case so I have room to put the controller port beside the GG main board. This wouldn't be ideal as it would make the case wider, as it is it 240mm and I would have to make it (off the top of my head) 280mm minimum. This would only lengthen one side and I was keen to have the cart slots in the middle of the case.

With concerns to the power port, if I do move the power board (by moving the controller ports, I make a bit of real estate to fit the daughter boards in the GG main board cutout where the screen used to be) I could fit a regular SMS power supply port. BUT the GG has 2 types of DC port MD1 size and MD2 size. I would go the MD1 size me-thinks.

I am going to try to go to Jaycar today to get some more parts.

Cheers Guys.

---

Yeah that's still a point of confusion. It'd be nice to know which countries if any received both versions.
As far as I can tell North American GG not only invented the MD2 size DC port (in terms of Sega hardware), the MD1 size DC port GG doesn't seem to have released here.

That was a discussion on smspower, I swear US models have the MD2 socket, whilst Europe have the MD1. I have a Japanese GG and it has the MD1 socket.

I think going the MD1 option is better as a Master System power supply is the same all over (I believe).

? How would you wire up fm sound expansion to a gamegear?

*edit* reading viletim's thing.

I still don't get how it works haha. I don't see any wiring instructions.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AlecRob

I think it should be more asymmetrical, like the SMS. With the cartridge slot on the top right, card slot (GG slot) underneath, and power button on the left. Basically a SMS case but slightly smaller and with the card slot shaped to accept GG carts.

Also, this thing should have the FM sound expansion included in it!

---

You wire it straight to the cart slot connector. In that link I have above it shows the pins that require connection. In this instance we are keen on lines
SMS PIN
SMS Signal

Sorry if I had actually READ it I would have understood I didn't give the full information.

We also need to add the info from Tim's website (not going to pinch his picture).

http://members.iinet.net.au/~stinkyf...sfm/smsfm.html

If you scroll down to "SMSFM Solder Pinout" and match the SMS Signal to the SMS cart slot, you will go "ah son of a bitch I see...."

You see Tim sell's 2 versions of the board, one with a cart connector for model 1's which plugs into the model 1's expansion port. The other he sells without the cart connector which is for model 2's and has to be soldered in as per his instructions. The only thing I don't know is where on a GG you would add the output connection (where you remove the capacitor in a Master System). I am actually not sure if you could actually install the his FM board "inline" with the game cart connector. So by that I mean cart connector in console, FM board, then plug in the game into the FM board... That is a question I will have to ask.

On another note I have sourced 5, 50 pin edge connectors with side mounts to suit the master system games. Also a cheaper illuminating latching switch, these I got just to bump up the price as the company offer free shipping over a certain amount. Better I get something, rather than pay for postage and pay the same amount lol!

Oh okay so it taps a bunch of stuff from the cartridge connector and outputs the audio which gets mixed by wiring it into the console audio circuit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by omp

$13 for the illuminated one. I should be able to recess this switch as well.

---

What!! 13$ a switch?! Thats insane. Ill be going to my local electronics surplus store tomorrow, im sure i can find equivalent for pretty cheap. Ill try to take pics.

Wow! That design is a thing of beauty! I sure hope these eventually get made.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MaxWar

What!! 13$ a switch?! Thats insane. Ill be going to my local electronics surplus store tomorrow, im sure i can find equivalent for pretty cheap. Ill try to take pics.

---

The joys of living in Australia mate.

The other one's I got late last night, where I got the 50 pin edge connectors from were $2.80 each. They are 240v, but I am hoping they can be stripped down and a LED put in place. I am also not sure if they are latching.

If all else fails I have an account with Jaycar's supplier, so I could get them at wholesale prices (the $13 illuminated switch).

Edit the suppliers price is about $9 each

I might give it more of a model 1 feel, but I think having a headphone jack on the case would be nice. Also, if there was a headphone jack with slider it would balance out the case a bit more.

crazy

I'd have to disagree about the volume slider, those things are wicked dust trap. I say keep it sleek.

I don't mind cleaning mine..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by djshok

I'd have to disagree about the volume slider, those things are wicked dust trap. I say keep it sleek.

---

Worked on it for a few hours last night, but didn't get to far. AutoCAD crashed on me a few times, luckily through experience I do a few things and hit save....

I beefed up the case a bit, it was about 2mm thick material, bumped it up to 4mm which is about the same as a medium size project enclosure (SMS1 case is about 2.5mm). Beefed it up a bit to make the case more durable. This took a while, as AutoCAD isn't the best for modelling, everything takes a bit longer to do.

Modified around the GG cart slot, it no longer has that sharp leading edge, also realised I made a boo-boo and had to trim back on the inside where the GG connector is. Before the case would have to be put on as the GG connector would be inside the cart slot opening. Now the case will simply drop down onto the bottom case.

Have moved the power and audio boards into the gap where the screen used to be (where I had the controller ports). This means that the connecting cables from the main board to the audio and power boards won't need to be lengthened. On the power board the DC socket, Battery terminals (won't need them anyway) and switch will need to be removed to give a bit more room. This won't be a problem as the DC socket can be moved to the back (ie re-used) and we are adding a new power switch anyway.

The controller ports, DC socket and AV holes have been filled in.

I measured up my old Rev 1 FM Expansion board (I swapped out the one in my SMS2 for a Rev 1.1 as it has better compatibility eg Time Soldiers and WB3 which won't work in a GG as it is missing 2 of the signals) and attached that to the bottom of the SMS cart connector. There is room for a FM board as at this time the Rev 1 board is slightly bigger. I say at this time as Tim has a new revision coming soon. I have to confirm with Tim (I have to send him a picture of what I am thinking) about installing the FM board directly onto the cart connector. So by this, the cart will essentially plug straight into the FM board and all the signals required will be tapped off the bottom of the FM board to the GG. Tim is also as yet to confirm where on the GG you put the FM boards output signal, he says he will do that when he gets time.

I am thinking with the start switch to do a bit of a dodgy (lol!) On the back of the GG main board (behind where the D-pad is) is a big empty pad. I am thinking a tactile switch could be attached (ie hot glued in place) and simply have a strategically placed button on the top part of the case for the action. This will be good/better for two reasons. 1/There will be NOTHING attached to the top part of the case, it will simply sit on top of the bottom case (isn't the LED on a Mega Drive model 1 a pain?). 2/I won't need to make any extra brackets etc (sweet!).

Not sure about a volume slider, this is getting pretty involved as it is. What I can try is, there *maybe* enough room to swing the audio board around and have the GG headphone jack and volume dial at the front of the console. So the order will be from left to right, power on switch, headphone jack/volume dial, controller ports. If worst comes to worst, I could move the power board back to the back of the console. If I do this I will have to reduce the material thickness so that the jack and dial actually stick out enough.

Bloody hell I may have bitten off more than I can chew here....

*edit the switch I got, the illuminated one lights up fine on the 9v rail on the GG power supply.

This thread gives me a diamond-hard chub.

A consolized Game Gear is a childhood dream come true.

I personally dig the horizontal loading case design.

I can't wait to get my GGTV in the mail so I can get to work.

Ok I have done some more today (enough for today lol!).

The bottom half of the case is a bit taller than I would like, as I have made allowances for those that like 90 deg DE9 connectors, it is only 5mm, but that extra will probably help with the switch anyway. I have added the stand offs for the 90deg connectors. The straight through connectors can be screwed in from behind (nothing suss) as the plastic is 7mm thick (so very short screws could be used).

I have radius'ed all the edges by 0.5mm so no sharp edges.

Unfortunately my plan about rotating the GG audio board is a no go (not easily anyway). This is because the GG has rounded edges the volume dial is further in than the headphone socket. If people want to add a headphone socket, there should be enough room.

To fit the control pad connectors into the case, the power board will have to have the DC socket and switch removed, again no drama as they won't be used anyway. The tallest capacitor on the power board should be ok (sits under the GG cart slot) as the power and audio boards dit lower. The headphone socket will probably have to be removed as well, but the dial can stay.

The stand offs (posts), I plan to leave blank and will be drilled manually. I have made the posts sizeable to allow for the "fudge factor".

Between the top and bottom case there is a lip for lining of the 2 halves.

1/Power switch
2/Power port hole
3/AV port hole (thinking of just doing a pilot hole and then people can drill to suit 8 din or 9 mini-din
4/Stand off's for the all the boards.
5/Start Switch
6/Probably something else....(hopefully not start again as I have already clocked up 15+hrs already).

About the volume slider, I'd skip that. I even think i would rather have the volume wheel completely removed and replaced by some resistance to get the line level just right anyway.
This project is already complicated enough, headphone jack+ volume is just a useless bling bling imo.

Also, I looked at some power switches at the electronic store today. I have no variant that is push and latch + LED...
They have zillions of types of Toggle switch, Rocker switch and slider switch but almost nothing push and latch...

However they have these rock switch with 12v LED, available in Blue, Red, Orange. I kinda like them. (1.99$)
But honestly Im not sure i see them in a GG custom case. I still prefer the one you have already but then... 13$? That's just obscene.

http://i.imgur.com/r2za2h.jpg

I have some other rectangular switches on their way, they were $2.80+gst each.

Hey mate, loving this project. Just joined to say if you need any help with knocking up some vectors for decals or any design work you need for this let me know. More than happy to help, PM me if your keen to see some of my design stuff. Done quite a bit of work for people on NintendoAge and NeoGeo.com.

*shudder* and *shudder*

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Thamiel

Hey mate, loving this project. Just joined to say if you need any help with knocking up some vectors for decals or any design work you need for this let me know. More than happy to help, PM me if your keen to see some of my design stuff. Done quite a bit of work for people on NintendoAge and NeoGeo.com.

---

Saw this over on Neo-Geo and thought it was relevant. If it's already been posted, my apologies.

http://www.lcv.ne.jp/~mgs1987/sega/gg2.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fahlim003

Saw this over on Neo-Geo and thought it was relevant. If it's already been posted, my apologies.

http://www.lcv.ne.jp/~mgs1987/sega/gg2.html

---

I think this was the inspiration behind the whole thread to begin with :p
Which Reminds me... I still need to complete my consolized GG project eventually...

Pictures for this thread ? I think Maxwar thread is the thread of the year, that rat piss gg was turned into gold.

omp sega cd fix thread was definitely thread of year, years ago, really helped me on mastering fixing it.

I haven't worked on this for ages, when I did this originally I was recovering from a tonsilectomy (sp?). Since then being a Dad, work etc and now "de-cluttering" to sell our house has all taken over lol!

I really need to get back to this game gear. Last I did on it was about fixing audio buzzing. It still needs some work but I had gotten to a point where it was decent, with fully working FM sound :p

My main bogus was the fact that noise only appear when I connect video. Uh?