It sounds like a corrupted or dead SRAM IC. Try opening it and show us that chip, it's located at one of the boards at the rightmost part of the system innards.
It sounds like a corrupted or dead SRAM IC. Try opening it and show us that chip, it's located at one of the boards at the rightmost part of the system innards.
Yep it is fun. Try one side then "walk" it around.Quote:
Originally Posted by fluxcore
Or replace it with a proper tactile switch, as i have found once the original goes iffy, it will go back to being iffy.
Very old model of Sega CD.Quote:
Originally Posted by villahed94
Is this fix able?
I tried a hack with gluing some aluminium foil onto the rubber nipple, however the surface area is so small it doesn't really work.Quote:
Originally Posted by omp
So I've desoldered my old reset button now, but upon measuring it it's roughly 9mm x 9mm, which isn't a standard tactile switch size as far as I can tell. Have you been replacing them with 6x6 through hole ones and bending the legs out, or 12x12s and mashing them in? Also, what's the most appropriate height to go for? Do you keep the rubber bit around for the "feel" or just go with good ol plastic on plastic clackeyness?
Hey everyone, new to this board and recently got my hands on my very own Genesis from a friend. :o
It's a model 1, VA7. I found the sound to be very (very) quiet as compared to my NES or SNES, running either through the AV out or the RF out (both genuine Sega cables). I assume that this is not normal since I compared the volume of my Genesis to MaxWar's VA7 recordings... his are much louder. I tried installing a CCAM from Retrogamer343, and it did not solve the low volume issue. I can max my TV volume and it is still quiet... Putting the volume up that high only introduces significant background hiss anyways.
Would a bad cap or resistor cause the low volume issue? Would recapping the whole board help (with a console5 recap kit for example)?
Thanks to anyone who can provide some advice!
Hey all, I have a very unique problem with my MD1 v6 pal and I would love to get some opinions on it.. :)
Basically no original MD games play on it, but my power base converter DOES play all my old MS games.
When I turn it on with my (tested working) MD Sonic 1 & 2 and Shaq Fu (don't ask) it gives either a solid black screen with no sound or the same but with a brain-shattering constant whine that forced me to slide the volume down while testing. ;)
So right now it just underwent a complete recap, and when I was testing it did feel slightly more responsive and had much better AV on my MS games, but still no change on the on the MD games
I know that the 68000 is not used in MS mode so my guess is that it's either the CPU which is a Hitachi HD68HC000P8 or it has something to do with the TMSS..
I did already order a new Motorola MC68000P10 from Ebay so I could do some overclocking.. so if it is the cpu I will know before 2014 hopefully.
It might still be another component, so if any of you know what other components are left off in MS mode please let me know
I would really appreciate any assistance on this,
-T
Hey Bozo,Quote:
Originally Posted by bozo55
I'm new on the forum like you :notworthy:, but I think giving the Genesis a full recap should be mandatory on a virgin Gen/MD, because they are all about 15-20 years old and most electrolytic capacitors start going fuzzy after 10-12 years.
Once mine was fully recapped the upgrade in AV quality was great! and the volume did level out a lot (even though I have only played MS games on it) so I would recommend you to go for it if you feel confident in your soldering skills.
also if you live near an electronics store you might be able to get the needed capacitors on your own, in most cases you need a specific combination of 1pf, 10pf, 47pf, 100pf and 220pf capacitors just look here : console5 Genesis page
You can do like I did and open the Cap Map in paint and just cross out the names of the caps when you finish them :cool:
edit:
Now that I read it again I see that you have a VA7.. when stock those will never sound as good as the older MD1 boards, even with a recap because their audio circuitry is wired pretty much the same as a MD2, but there's a mod from TmEE that makes them sound even better then the VA1-VA6's!
So.. It seems nobody here knows the answer to my question about Genesis/MD hardware?..
hmmm.. I did expect at least somebody would be interested in this unique problem.. I have searched all over the internet found only 1 other case like mine.. but ah well.. if nobody knows the answer to my question.. I guess I'll just do it myself (as usual) :)
I'm no recapping master but I got a black screen when I was testing during overclocking my Genesis 1 HDG if the CPU wasn't wired correctly. Have you tried reflowing the CPU pin joints? One of the reasons I really don't want to attempt a full recap is I have just had too many things go wrong with even a few caps that either ruined the board or made it not practical to keep going. If I had the equipment and knowledge to test continuity in every circuit I would probably try recapping one of my model 1s.
That could be my solder skills/knowledge, but I've fixed plenty of laptop power jacks and recapped some Game Gears' sound board successfully, and installed viletim's SMS FM expansion in my 1986 Master System.
Hey Sheath,Quote:
Originally Posted by sheath
thanks for the quick reply! :)
I have reflowed the CPU twice already and I'm confident it's at good as it is going to get.
The CPU itself had a small blemish over the markings on the chip when I got it, which is what originally made me think the CPU itself was the problem.. it cleaned right off after applying some denatured alcohol with a cotton swab but it did leave a strange, slightly reflective surface.
If there is a list of components that are not in operation during Power Base Converter usage it would really help me.. but I cannot seem to find such a list.. I don't even know what the TMSS is doing when the PBC is in use..
about the recapping:
there really shouldn't be a problem when recapping.. the only real thing that matters is the minimum voltage requirement and μF rating, and they are well documented for most common MD/Gen revisions, you just flip over the board and alternate heating up both solder joints and wiggle the cap until it comes loose (make sure you have the right one though :p).
After that you just use solder braid/sucker to suck the holes dry and position the new caps.
You do have to be careful with the polarity though, the longer pin is always positive! You can reference the cap maps and the board is marked so it should be clear.
Mine is a VA6 PAL and it had the exact same caps on it as a VA6 USA, just very minor differences in how the caps were positioned on the board.
good day.
i made rgb amp for my clone but the white color seems like a yellow. any ideas?
Attachment 8295Attachment 8296Attachment 8297
Hey Anar, I am unable to view your attachments..Quote:
Originally Posted by Anar
I'm not sure if it's the system or you did something wrong but it is telling me your attachment is invalid.
UPDATE:
a change of plans:
1.
I have found a broken first edition Pal Megadrive on ebay, it says the device doesn't run any games but does turn on (it would be funny if it turns out to also have a busted cpu)
Replacing the cpu on my VA6 will have to wait until I receive this new console
2.
I have also found a fitting 2-row 64 pin socket that will allow me to swap processors more easily in the future.
This will be handy if I ever decide to run comparisons on the different types
If anyone has any knowledge of which parts are inactive when the power base converter is inserted, please let me know!
Check A16 through A23 and D8 through D15 with a multimeter while the console is idling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazingtimon
Just answering my own questions again, I finally received an order of 6mm x 6mm x 5mm tactile switches (after 2 MONTHS shipping), and after bending the legs out they are actually a pretty damn good fit for the reset switch. Also, the clackey feel of just the raw tactile switch feels pretty good. I haven't soldered it down yet, and maybe it could use some hot glue for extra stability, but will see how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by fluxcore