Update:
I bought this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS...35954916.html?
Seems to be ok, only I'll need to switch in places wires and resolder them inside of the PSU for negative to be in center.
Update:
I bought this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS...35954916.html?
Seems to be ok, only I'll need to switch in places wires and resolder them inside of the PSU for negative to be in center.
Peeteris, most new power supply these days are heat sealed (or glued together) at the factory which means no screws to allow them be opened.. easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peeteris
I don't think it's the case with this chinese power supply. Usualy those are screwed with only one screw and back of power supply just slides out.
I've recently been trying to clean up my mega drive II and some other things, but I've run into some problems with the controllers.
First off, apparently my controller doesn't exist because I haven't been able to find any information on it whatsoever, aside from this page, but I'm not even sure if it's the same controller as mine.
Because of this, I don't even know if it's an official controller or not, but it looks like one as far as I can tell.
I made pictures of anything that might help with identification, so I'll try to kind of guide you through the controller.
Here's the controller fully assembled.
The back casing with zoom-ins.
Without the back casing.
The back of the board. I noticed that there are several red S's on it, so I encircled them, and I also made a rough trace to give an idea of what you're looking for.
The front of the board with zoom-ins.
The controller insert+cable.
The front of the casing without the board, along with zoom-ins of the rubber pads.
The front of the casing without the rubber pads, along with zoom-ins of the buttons.(I couldn't get a good picture of it, but the A and B buttons have the numbers 1- and 4 inside of them, while the C button has 1- and 3.
The front casing with zoom-ins.
Here's where things get a little weird.
The D-pad consists out of two main parts: the black piece that you actually touch, and the white piece that holds the black piece in place.
The white piece goes inside the casing, while the black piece goes on the outside. They're actually hold together by a screw. I don't know why they went with this, but it works so who am I to judge.
The three main things that concern me are this little scratch here, the wear on this black conductive stuff, and this tear in the D-pad rubber.
Now, I should say that everything still works and you can still use the controller, but I would still like to do some maintenance.
The scratch should be pretty easy to fix, but I don't know where to get the green coating stuff, nor do I even know what its called.
The wear on the contact point is probably going to be harder to fix, and again I have no idea what it even is or where to get it.
The rubber is torn on both the left and right side of the + so that's pretty much a lost cause.
This is the biggest of my problems because like I said at the beginning of this post, I can't find anything about this controller, let alone replacement parts.
Furthermore, I don't know any other kind of controller that has this particular type of + shaped rubber pad, so I've kind of run into a dead end.
Some miscellaneous tidbits: the rubber pads for the A, B, C, and Start buttons are all identical: the actual A, B, and C buttons are too worn out to be able to see which color they were, and while I don't know a lot about this kind of stuff, what I think I've managed find out about the actual controller is that it's supposedly a model made very late in the console's lifespan, but I don't know how accurate this is.
I would really appreciate any kind of help, whether it's about what the black conductive stuff is, or where I can get replacement rubber + pads.
The gamepad you have is a 1991 Europe release that more an likely came with the Mega Drive II you have. This gamepad you have here has been well-used and abused I would think of just replacing it with a better kept used gamepad.
The "little scratch" on the PCB, if the gamepad still functions I would just ignore it but if you want to put enamel paint or nail polish of any color of choice over it. You could touch-up the the wear on the PCB for the action button with conductive carbon paint but what was done at the factory was/is better also getting the old and new to work as one could be hard. The D-pad rubber membrane could be replaced they can be found on eBay.
Thank you for the reply.
It looks like you're right about the model, but unfortunately the rubber you linked to is useless for me.
See, the problem with it is that your rubber is hold in place by two holes on the far ends of it, and the rubber on my controller just lies on top of it, held in place by the edge of the rubber.
Here's a picture of a controller with your rubber in it, and here's mine.
The pin that would go through the hole on the top is too far away from the pin that's supposed to go through the bottom (here's a picture that I edited for comparison), so I'm pretty sure that if I tried to use the type of rubber you linked to, it would get so far stretched out that the rubber wouldn't be able to make contact with the right place on the board.
This is the problem that I've been having; your type of round rubber can be found pretty much everywhere, but I can't find any place that sells the + shaped rubber that I actually need.
Again, thanks for the help and I hope you'll be able help me some more.
Yes your right there is something odd about the D-pad in your gamepad, the rubber should have metal ball bearing in it that the center of the bottom of plastic D-pad itself rests on that is found in model 2 pads and no white plastic involved? I was wrong to link the eBay listed rubber it's for a model 1 pad. The bottom of the plastic D-pad found in the model 1 pad has a nub that goes through said hole to the PCB.
Edit: What I am use to seeing in a US model two 3 button MK-1650
I think I have a vague understanding of how the ball thingy works, but my controller uses a completely different system.
The way my D-pad works, is that the part that you use to control with your fingers (this thing) slides into this white part.
The black part remains outside of the casing and is prevented from falling off by a screw that goes through the back of the white part, and the two of them interact through the actual casing.
The rubber just lies on top of the white part.
This is the reason why I think that it's a different model.
After doing some more digging, I've come across a Genesis model that uses the same type of D-pad as my Megadrive modelhttps://forum.digitpress.com/forum/s...ler-Variations
Unfortunately the pictures are very low quality, but I think it's this one.
While this website mentions a V3 controller with a 2 part plastic, there are no pictures to show what is meant by this.
A bit of related off-topic-
Why original Genesis/Mega Drive controllers are so expensive? Even 3-button controllers are in a price of whole system.
Cheapest 3-button controller is 24$ on Ebay.
It's probably because of the NES mini/mini megadrive/sonic mania/general retro craze that's been going on for a while.
I remember how just a couple years ago, you could still get official copies of pokemon Heartgold/Soulsilver secondhanded for about 40/50 euro's, whereas now you can only find them for 2 or 3 times as much. And complete sets with box, manual, and pokewalker, can go for 4 to 5 times as much.
Apparently some models have different cable lengths, so after some measuring I found out that my controller cable is 189 cm and 5 mm, measuring only the cable itself not the rubber/plastic it goes into.
I also found this page but the pictures are gone.
EDIT: So after several hours of searching online, I've found out that the mechanism used for the D-pad in my controller is the same mechanism used inside of the Saturn controller, and apparently some versions of the 6 button Megadrive controller.
What I've also managed to figure out is that my controller should be a model made pretty late in the lifespan of the Megadrive, but I don't know how to confirm this since the only places where my model seems to get mentioned are a few posts spread across several websites, and in the few cases that pictures are actually included, the pictures are dead. I've tried to figure out what this coding means, but there's no one that seems to know how to interpret it(in fact there's no one that's even bothered trying to figure out what it means as far as I can tell) and the only thing I know about it is that it says when and where it was made.
EDIT2: The ABS in this picture stands for acrylonitrile butadiene styrene; the chemicals used to make the plastic for the casing.
I'm not making any progress with the numbers though; the closest I've gotten to figuring it out is that they look like CAS numbers, but they don't check out unfortunately(unless modulo 5 is used, but the official ones only use modulo 10), and it doesn't seem to pass any other identification database or algorithm, so I'm starting to think that it's a proprietary ID system, used by either Sega or the manufacturer.
Where do i do 50 posts. And does anyone know about Genesis Model 1 hardware revisions. I have a VA2 HDG M1 case with no mainboard and my serial is 39S29259 which had an N64 bundled in the broken lot. Before the board was trashed, prior to recapping, On my VA2 M1, I had low sound on TV and when i used headphones and used it for long, it would ear rape and be crunchy. Does anyone got a new VA2 board for me? Because on November, I was throwing a huge fit. Are Non-TMSS Genesis consoles worth playing anyway? Are VA2 M1 Genesis consoles good or VA3 is better since they fixed the audio amp. Also on the IF YOU NEED HELP label on my case, The phone number says 800-USA-SEGA instead of 1-800-USA-SEGA like you usally see. Is this a very original unit?
SPECS it had:
Z80 date code was 8918
CPU was a Signetics 68K SCN68000C8N64 made in 37th week of 1988 8837
One more thing, My VA2 was freezing now. I tried to recap my VA2 using caps from a VA6 and i destroyed two of my consoles. Someone told me to not use caps from other hardware.
"I tried to recap my VA2 using caps from a VA6 and i destroyed two of my consoles. Someone told me to not use caps from other hardware." I feel a sadness after reading this. Console5 has the electrolytic capacitors for them Cap Kits: Game Console Hardware and IC# cap info VA2 VA6 to maybe get them working again.
But thank you for enlightening me about the date code on the Signetics Z80 CPU I took a look at the one in my VA3 on the bottom it has 9029 on it.
"D-pad in my controller is the same mechanism used inside of the Saturn controller, and apparently some versions of the 6 button" Yes I figure this out too. You have a MK-1650-50 and this is the only info I could find about it. Edit: Given all the wear this pad has and coupled with the availability of parts, I would retire it and look to purchase the more widely used Europe issued MK-1650 model II variant gamepad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumisil