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Hmm do my posts work here? It seems my responses get skipped or something.
You can get away with using a 9VDC power supply as long as the current rating is at least ABOVE 1amp. The original MD1's with the "High Def" remark on the cover (at least in Australia and every time I see one of these units it has this powerpack) seem to have been released with the same power supply as the master system 2's. Which were 9VDC 1Amp. The MD's have voltage regulators in them which regulate the voltage to 5volt DC. Allthough having said that the later MD1's without the remark had the 10V 1.2A Power Supplies. When I got my new power supplies (1 each for my MS2 & MD1) I tested it by leaving it on for 2 hours, hooked up through my multi-meter (reading the current flow) and the power supply didn't even raise a sweat. The mega drive was also equally as happy.
The power supply is a nice narrow regulated switch-mode type, so it will fit with other things plugged in beside it. It also sports short circuit protection. So you should be able to go down to your local electronics shop and pick one up, quite easily. Mine cost me AU$12each (wholesale suckers). If you get one that has say 9VDC 1.5amp that would be great as the overall wattage is greater (10x1.2=1200 9x1.5=1350). I would rather get a new/modern power supply than one that has been around for the last 20yrs, not knowing when it will die.
Here is a link to what I got.
https://www.soanarplus.com/FCKeditor...MPP100-119.pdf
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Ok did a test for you on an old aethestically damaged MD1 (that works). Plugging my SNES power supply in it caused it to go crazy. I had no picture (as I was using AV) but the sound was buzzing. Plugging the correct (DC) power supply in and it was back to kicking goals.
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Shoving AC into MD could damage its 7805 (which may kill the rest of the system).... so I would really not recommend you to do it...
Any AC brick with above 1A will do and voltage between 7.5 to 18V. My original MD2 AC brick is 14V 4A, the things they write have always been wrong...
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Exactly! Which is why I tested it on a system I didn't care about to see if I could get the same fault as thepspgamer has shown/described. Which it did. I had it on for less than 5 seconds, saw the fault was the same and switched it off. I even used a game I didn't care about. Still worked after that too. I just hope our friend hasn't left his MD on long enough to do any permament damage, I am confident he hasn't, all things considered they are pretty tough units (lets see an XBOX360 or similar still going in 20 years time).
I think the terms AC & DC adaptor can get people confused as to what is what. To me a AC adaptor changes one form of AC to another form of AC (eg NES/SNES 9VAC-1.3amp), whilst a DC Adaptor changes AC to DC (as is with Sega's).
It also seems from reading various posts that it is voodoo to use anything but a Sega power supply. As you say anything as long as it is DC is the key, remembering to get the polarity right too. A modern switch mode power supply is much more efficient takes up less space yadda yadda yadda, but see now I am going on about them lol!
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anyone done rgb/component/ mod for the genesis/ sega cd? is it possible on the master system?
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on those sound issues... i too have a problem. there like static or some kind of fuzziness going on... i also see vertical bars on the screen , mainly on black/dark screens...wonder what exactly could be going out?
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http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/sega/sms2-av3.htm For SMS2. Browse that site for other RGB stuff. Very good site
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sorry to interrupt and apologies if this is in the wrong place but here goes
I am about to embark on my first region switch mod for my md1 but i have an idea about linking an led to each region when they are in the relevant position to show which region the console is set to (as well as the position of the switch)
so my question is - HOW? or IS IT POSSIBLE?
i.e
uk or standard position - red
jap - green
usa - blue
meaning that when the region is set then only the relevant led is lit
also does anyone know where i can get suitable SPDT rocker switches?
thank you in advance and anticipation.
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I like to do things digitally, and it would be quite easy...
first of all, you have 2 switches, 50/60 and EN/JP.
50+EN = Europe
50+JP = Asia
60+EN = USA
60+JP = Japan
You could have 2 LEDs on the each of the control signals, VCC +LED- signal +LED- GND
So basically you'd be having LEDs on the pins of the switches, that would be the easiest way.
I personally would have used Logic chips and whatnot :P
if you need a schematic, let me know, I'll whip up one
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again sorry to be simple (thick!) but the leds wont need any extra power will they?
i actually really wanted to use some kind of fibre optic in place of the original led , using only one location,3 different colours.any thoughts on that?
the schematic would be beautiful,i have some instruction on the mod already and my main concern was power requirements and actually conecting the led to the switch.
i am not overly technical,so go easy on me.
thank you.
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I hope what I've put into attachment helps... its 2 LEDs per region... if you want 1 LED per region, its going to be a bit more complex.
Sorry for JPG, its the only more or less non limited format I could use to attach...
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yeah,i see what you mean about complications for one led per region,actually could look really cool done right.oh well work starts when i get my switches.
i like the look of rocker switches but i was toying with the aircraft flip lid switches too.rocker have a good low profile,less intrusive but aircraft ones look cool!
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You could use ultra bright leds (1000MCD or similar) mounted somehow facing each other in a clear plastic tube (old biro tube?) so it "throws" the light out of the existing LED hole. Use 3mm leds, it might cost a few more dollars to do but *may give you the effect you are after.
TmEE if you need small schematics drawn up I can do them up on CAD and then convert them to PDF.
EDIT Whoops ah damn that will mix the colours together and you may not be able to tell.....
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loved the digital display on one mod saying 5e6a , now that rocks.i want something unique,hence thinking of fibre optic 3 colour display,but im only clever enough to think the thought.
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i have a master system w/ missle defense built-in. however i cannot play teddy boy card game on it, some software error message comes up? any ideas why?
