Printable View
Super NES hardware clones are missing the required 200ohm pull-down resistors for the audio inputs coming from the cartridge slot. You will need to add 200ohm resistors between the audio inputs (pins 31 and 62, the right-most pins on the cartridge slot when looking at the top of the system) to get the audio levels right.
You replaced all the 2.7Kohm resistors on the audio amp with 33Kohm resistors, right?
Hi. Yes I did it, Snes games sound good (compared with the 2.7 resistors, that was horrible), but now SGB is giving loud audio and because of this some games that are enhanced with extra sounds (like Kirby's DreamLand 2) is barely noticeable.
You are forced to do this in the console slot?, don't work in the SGB pins directly?.
Edit: Is this scheme right?.
http://i.imgur.com/6AYwYVkh.png
Thanks. See ya.
Yes, that pinout is correct. Solder 200ohm resistors between the two audio input pins and Ground.
Hi. Can be there any problem using the own ground of the cart slot?, like this:
http://i.imgur.com/pSAAsen.png
How much watts need to have the resistors?, and (maybe you forgot to answer this question), can I do the same modification in the SGB pins directly instead of the console cart slot?. Thanks and excuse me for bothering you. See ya.
It's a bad idea to do the mod within the Super GameBoy as when you will want to use the cartridge on a real Super NES, the 200ohm resistors in the cartridge will be in parallel to those in the Super NES itself, with the end result being an effective resistance of 100ohms. This will seriously screw up the volume levels on a real Super NES.
In regards to where to solder the resistors within the console, you can pretty much use any Ground point on the motherboard. Your idea is perfectly fine. As for resistor wattage, I recommend 1/8W or 1/4W.
Hi. Done, resistors installed and working, SGB give a correct level now, all sound gorgeous and can be appreciate the special effects... I'm not sure but I think the FX games I tested sound better now too, with more bass.
Taking advantage of the situation I made photos of the back that I had left to do and uploaded to the imgur gallery, if you want you can take a look: http://imgur.com/a/Py1nM
In the "SR3 v2 Snes Back" image you can see how they almost left one pin unsoldered, what a mess, at least that is fixed too :) . Thanks again Ace for your help.
PD: There is some know clones with Noacs that Zapper don't work?, or incompatibility between region (Pal Zapper in a Ntsc system)?. See ya.
Hi! I'm new to this forum so I can't post new threads yet.
And this one seems to be the most techwise advanced about the retro trio and I have a question about some issues I'm having with it.
I bought one here in Brazil and changed the resistors from audio amplifier in the snes part and added the pull down resistors back in the cartridge slot as well. Did this two modifications cause I bought a super gameboy adaptor and out of the box the snes sound was ridiculous.
Well, I bought a sd2snes and noticed something very weird I couldnt find anywhere else: When playing super metroid, both the buttons A a B when pressed register as A+B. The same happens to buttons X and Y. Both registers as X + Y.
So, just for testing purposes, I put the sd2snes in a real snes I have and with the same metroid rom and same controller too, the game works fine. Just to clarify, so far this happens only with Super Metroid rom.
Thx for any ideas.
EDIT1: Oh! And hello to all! I've been reading you guys posting for a long time. Finally now I'm able to thx the awesome work and knowledge you have been sharing.
Hi.
Yep, first days when I was testing my PAL carts I noticed this issue too, both (Japan, USA) rom in my EverDrive and my original SNSP-RI-ESP cart do the same thing in the SR3, then decide to try a original SNES controller and works well, so... for some reason SR3 and her own controller v2 (this new ones with SNES port) don't understand well with Super Metroid. See ya.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amakyusa
Quote:
Originally Posted by SquallDark
Yes. After you mentioned it, I tried with the SNES original controller and It worked....weird stuff. Thanks!
Hi. Hey Amakyusa, is it possible that you can try a Zapper on your SR3 unit?, for some reason my model NES-005 (I do not know if they are different from those of other regions, although I only see the same model in all) does not work on my SR3, not even a Zapper model manufactured by RetroBit works.
The console receives the trigger signal, the selection moves work and even the screen flashes but there is no action response (when you point to the screen), all this tested in a CRT Trinitron 60Hz fully compatible (PAL system works).
I think there may be something strange about how the ports of controllers behave, and it must be because of the changes they made in these, but it is not clear yet.
Hum....Unfortunatelly I don't have a zapper. But I'll see if I can get one. If so, I'll give it a try and post the results here.Quote:
Originally Posted by SquallDark
Another thing I'm doing is a PCB for the Ace's Universal Amp Schematic, I don't know if somebody already did this. But on this approach the R and L outs won't use the SR3 audio outs (I plan to add another one on mine since I dont want to use much of the SR3 audio circuitry) . Anyway, I'm doing it in a fashion that anyone(almost) can make your own using these green universal 2-sided PCB's like this one:
http://i.imgur.com/v3IYJ1H.jpg
I still need to check the circuit for any mistakes and manufacture the first one.
As I progress, I'll make all the work available here.
The PCB so far:
http://i.imgur.com/QyiOLS3.png
I've made some tweaks to the circuit in question, so I suggest you apply the following changes:
-R12 and R13 replaced by 5.1Kohm resistors
-R22 and R23 replaced by 24Kohm resistors
-R14, R15, R16, R17, R19, R21, R24 and R25 replaced by 10Kohm resistors
This is just to bring the circuit a little more in line with Nintendo's original Super NES audio amp, which this design is based off of. Also, if need be, change R12 and R13 as you see fit if the NOAC in the clone you're installing the circuit into has an NOAC that puts out louder or quieter sound (5.1Kohms is specifically for the Super Retro Trio Version 1; the Super Retro Trio Version 2 and other clones may need bigger/smaller resistors here.
Nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace
Thanks!
EDIT: Image updated with the tweaks.
This is just a quick word of my first impressions with the Super Retro Trio Version 2 first-hand. Oh dear...
As I suspected, it is quite the downgrade to Version 1. I didn't test everything, but this is just to reaffirm things said about the Super Retro Trio Version 2 earlier in the thread and add new information:
-Absolutely horrific Super NES audio like the RetroN3 since Version 2
-Genesis audio got messed up with overblown PSG and very low volume (no comments on stereo audio yet)
-NES Composite video looks to be far too bright compared to everything else, and is so bright, many colors get crushed to white (this is the exact opposite of the Super NES and Genesis sides, which are rather dark)
-The usual NES problem games still don't work (but the EverDrive N8 does)
-Super NES games with lockout chip checks still work (not that it matters when the audio amp is enough to make you want to wish you were deaf)
-Virtua Racing still won't work (not surprised)
-The pack-in controllers are incredibly underwhelming compared to the ones included with Version 1 (these are your run-of-the-mill Super NES clone controllers that have been included with 99% of Super NES clones since the FC Twin Version 1 - they don't feel as solid, the D-pad is loose, the buttons are much stiffer and the Start and Select buttons are plastic rather than rubber)
-A/V quality cable has been degraded (these feel really cheap, like the cables you get on a Yobo Gameware clone)
I'm going to do some more thorough testing during the day and record 10 NES games to start a comparison of this Super Retro Trio revision to actual Nintendo and Sega hardware. The comparison may be ready by the end of the day, but if not, I'll have it up during the week. Regardless, RetroBit should be ashamed of this console, it is just completely backwards from the original revision. Complete failure.
It's really a shame, but these companies look at it this way ---> lower cost to manufacture over quality of product, that's what they care more about. It really is unfortunate because we end up with modern clone consoles getting worse in quality rather than better, one of the latest examples being the RetroN 1 HD.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace