Looking to buy a SEGA CD model 2. I had one but the damn thing kept locking/freezing up and so I tried to repair it and failed. If any of you would like to sell me your working SEGA CD than I appreciate it.
Thanks!
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Looking to buy a SEGA CD model 2. I had one but the damn thing kept locking/freezing up and so I tried to repair it and failed. If any of you would like to sell me your working SEGA CD than I appreciate it.
Thanks!
I might be able to help you out here. How does $40 shipped sound? You just want the unit itself, right?
Yes! My old one had the infamous "blown fuse" problem. I just need the console.
The blown fuse is a really easy fix, don't toss it out or anything - the freezing/locking up is most likely a laser. $40 shipped as posted above is a good deal though for a working one, I'd grab it.Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Man
I did try fixing it by buying the fuse and items but I suck at soldering and I messed up the fuse area on the board.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Popp
Can you provide a pic of the damage? It might be fixable yet.
Attachment 11905
What do you think?
Erm, the picture won't show up :( I had that problem earlier, when I tried to post a picture via Quick Reply. Can you re-upload the picture?
Attachment 11908
How about now?
Maybe you can solder in the one leg of the picofuse, and then run a wire from the other end of the fuse to the adjacent diode, if the diode isn't too badly knackered?
That doesn't look too bad though, worst case you replace the diode (solder braid helps) and try the idea above. If the pad that got broken off also services the circuit to the right of it, then you might be able to run a wire to there too. I wonder if one of those through-hole type SNES picofuses would work? They have the longer leads that would make that kind of modding a bit easier, if not a little messier.
Any news with the system?
Well I thought there's no hope since I can't find a way to solder the other half of the wire since there no way to do so but that's just me since I'm no expert. Do you think there's still hope for it?
After observing the picture more closely, it still looks fixable. I'd take a through-hole type picofuse (a SNES one perhaps?) and jump it from the one pad that's still there (where you soldered that red wire), directly to the other side of the diode, the part connecting to where the pad and trace tore off. The pad still seems to be there on the diode itself.
What you might want to try, is using a lower temperature while soldering. On my Elenco variable-wattage soldering iron I have it set to about 2/3 up (3/4 when working with stubborn through hole solder) when working with SMD stuff, and even then I have to be careful not to heat the pads for too long. Don't bother with RoHS (lead-free) solder, that stuff is horrible. Some good 60/40 rosin core (leaded) solder is vastly easier to work with, and allows you to work at lower temperature settings.
On a side note, I noticed that boards with the 'CMK' logo are particularly prone to having pads tear off the boards even with the heat set fairly low.