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Do you mean the Snes Jr? That's actually the only model to my knowledge that needs a mode to output any type of RGB signal.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadkill
The standard SNES model just needs a scart cable (with transcoder box in the USA) or the HDRetrovision cable and that's pretty much it. No modding needed.
Nope, the original SNES model. Particularly the ones with the SNS-CPU-GPM-02 motherboard revision. The SNES Jr. video encoders to do not have any kind of YPbPr support on them. I did this mod long before the HD RetroVision cables came out, and this doesn't tap from the RGB output of the SNES like those cables do, you can get YPbPr direct from certain SNES video encoder chips. It actually looks better than the native RGB output IMO. Here's a video of my mod:Quote:
Originally Posted by avlon
https://youtu.be/4FDNJ05bUp4
Please mind the hot glue, I was still very much new to modding stuff and I drilled the hole too big for one of the component output jacks so it was loose, I wanted them as secure as possible (two of the component jacks were the same size, one of them was smaller). It was also the SNES I used for doing a lot of trial and error with, trying different combinations of resistors and/or power caps to finally get the colors right. I have another SNES with the same SNS-CPU-GPM-02 motherboard revision and I plan to do a much, much cleaner job with it. I'm going to recap it because the video on it right now is shaky, I'm going to replace the original 7805 with a new one that doesn't even need a heatsink (so I'm going to completely remove the heatsink for more room to maneuver) and I have to replace the power jack/RF/Multi-out plate because the power jack is loose. Lastly, I'm going to use a TRRS jack this time (instead of RCA jacks) on the RF output by removing the RF modulator so that I can keep the "1-800" sticker on the back.
The picture quality looks great! From the date posted, I'm guessing that you did this (at least in part) because there were no HDretrovision cables back then?
Also, from what I've read, Samsungs seem to be very tolerant of 240p over component, and I see that is the case with your set up in that video. Have you tried it with other brands of TV to see if they get a picture?
I did it because I saw other mods like this done to even older SNES revisions, the ones that almost always have yellowing on their casing. The SNS-CPU-GPM-02 has a shell that doesn't yellow :D ! This was back in mid 2013 but didn't finally get the mod done correctly until late 2014 after practicing how to solder on many Genesis consoles (including two 32X's) that I S-Video modded.Quote:
Originally Posted by avlon
Oh and yeah, the Samsung HDTV/computer monitor I have in that video is fairly 240p tolerant. Unfortunately though, it can't handle all the Genesis resolutions such as when Sonic 2 goes to 2 player split-screen.
RetroDuos have ZERO voltage regulation within the console because they ship with a 5V power supply, thus negating the need to put a regulator circuit in the console. It might be possible the NOAC fails due to broken ribbon cables or cold solder joints on either the ribbons or the cartridge slot. I had that happen to me on my FC3 Plus Version 2 where one pin on the cartridge slot had cold solder and I would have to fight with the system for 15 minutes to get it to boot just one NES game. Turned out to be a cold Ground solder joint; reflowed it, works as it did day 1.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadkill
NOACs are usually quite durable, I have two FC Game Console Version 1s (60-pin and 72-pin variety, the first legal NOAC-based clones produced back in 2005) that are still going strong after about 12 years. In fact, I have a SuperJoy dating back to 1999 with a rather shit NOAC that still works. The only time I've seen an NOAC fail was when it was overvolted with unregulated DC from a 10V power supply after a resistor was dropped into the system, shorting the capacitors on the DC input with the capacitors on the power pins of the NOAC. Instant death.
In regards to the 3.3V RAM, if your RetroN3 is like my 2.4GHz Edition, four of the five RAM chips will already be 5V RAM, so only one chip will need replacing. Much better than replacing every single RAM chip in a clone that uses ONLY 3.3V RAM, especially those like the Super Retro Trio which use TSOP chips (those are a bitch to work with).
Wow, thanks for all that info Ace! So this means I could potentially get a cheap Retro Duo, Super Retro Trio or Retron 3 with the NES portion of it "non-working" for a decent price off ebay and just fix it. Not that I need it though tbh, but still nice to be able to fix it. The info you provided in your post is making me lean towards a Retron 3 if I ever decided to get a clone. But I feel like I've made up my mind already, and will just stick either with decent emulation from my Original Xbox and Wii, and/or stick to real hardware.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace
Quite frankly, if I can get a sizable batch of UM6561CF-1 NOACs, I'd make drop-in replacement PCBs for clones that have garbage chipsets. It's not perfectly accurate or compatible (doesn't work with the PowerPak and PaperBoy refuses to respond to controller inputs), but it will do a lot better than the majority of chip-on-board NOACs. These will not work on the HD clones, though, due to how HDMI is generated.