It will not be able to deliver the increased freq range without distorting everything. The chip is made for (really)cheapo casette players.
It will not be able to deliver the increased freq range without distorting everything. The chip is made for (really)cheapo casette players.
This is true. I would love to offer you the discount but like I've said these things take a long time to build. I am trying to streamline my production methods but as it stands between work and two children plus my other projects it will take me 3-4 days or more to make 3 boards. At the moment I can't go lower than $30. Like I said if I can streamline my process and can make them quicker I will offer a better price for a bulk order. If I had enough people interested I would order some professional boards but I think I would need like 50 to 100 orders to make this a feasible option.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlockABoots
Thank you TmEE! Not sure if you can make it out in the pic but I gave you credit right on the pcb. Thank you for your design!Quote:
Originally Posted by TmEE
This will only work with a model 1 va7 board.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Redifer
I used to think the same way but once you replace the rgb encoder with a 2075, add the ccam mod and s-video or component I think I prefer the model 2. As far as testing the sound differences between systems, unfortunately I am hard of hearing (to many very loud concerts) and I can not hear high pitches anymore so I can not say if I prefer the model one sound over a model 2. I can say that the ccam mod on a model two sounds a lot better than original so that must say something for those people that can hear different pitches and such.Quote:
Originally Posted by evildragon
Yes I agree the price is low considering the work I have to put into these. I guess I do it a little out of passion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakon
I am interested in one of them PCB, definitely. I have been wanting to do the CCAM for years. Always put it back to later ( too many geeky projects ). But its definitely getting done no matter what it the next 6 months.Quote:
Originally Posted by retrogamer343
I do enjoy the building process but i have so many projects going on, saving a little time here would be worth it i think.
I think Having it as PCB + parts DIY kit would be a viable option too. Saves you the trouble of getting all the components yourself and you still have the professional looking PCB in the end.
Yes this is also an option. I could sell the blank pcbs for $10 and the pcbs with components as a diy kit for $20 if people are interested in that. Just make sure you have a multimeter on hand. It's easy to have a connection problem and a pain to figure it out without a multimeter. I have noticed the main issues are my vias. I hate having them in a design but unfortunately they are needed. And I have a nice test system with speaker terminals connected to the proper points on the motherboard so when I have a completed pcb all I have to do is connect them to the terminals to test without having to solder. This way I know each pcb is working properly before shipping.
Yes, it sucks as it induces some nasty hissing even when there is no sound. Frequencies can be quite high depending on the filtering used. But yeah, the hissing and background noise it tends to output is nasty.Quote:
Originally Posted by TmEE
I completely understand, I am concerened that this pcb won't fit inside a genesis 3 without having to removed the top metal shield case?, can you confirm or denie this? Also how come the CCAM can only be applied to a VA7 MD1 system can we not just bypass the headphone amp on earlier VA'sQuote:
Originally Posted by retrogamer343
Does the system 1 have a better video output that any VA of the system 2 consoles then?Quote:
Originally Posted by retrogamer343
I think the word you're looking for is "deny", which is easier to type than denie.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlockABoots
RGB should be fine enough on any version. In UK, you likely already have SCART and can ignore s-video or component.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlockABoots
RGB should be identical no matter what variant you use, but I found that a model 1 produces a brighter more saturated picture with less well defined scan lines than any of the model 2 variants I used. It also might vary depending on what SCART cable you use. I read there are cables with "Brightness Constraint" out there, whatever that means, and cables which use the raw sync signal rather than the composite video's sync signal.
Probably just 220uF caps in series with the color lines. That's what I use (+ 75 Ohm resistors). It lowers the brightness a bit and gives better contrast.Quote:
Originally Posted by Christuserloeser
Your PCB looks really sweet, but you say you're working on something even nicer? Can't wait to see it. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by retrogamer343
Thank you and I will be sure to post here when I get the pcb done. And I also need to mention that the $30 shipped price was intended for the US only and it seems most people that are interested in these are over seas. I don't mind shipping over seas but you will have to add $5 for the extra shipping costs. So far it looks like it will be about $7 for me to ship to Germany and $6.50 to ship to the UK. This is First class mail only.
Retrogamer343, how far are we off until you have the redesigned pcb?
Well I have decided to discontinue the original pcb design I was using. It's just a lot of work and very hard to get all of those components soldered correctly (especially the caps that have traces on the top of the board.) I am going to try a completely smd version but this means I will need to order all of the components for this and I'm a bit strapped for cash so I'm thinking it's going to be a month or so. I do have a couple of people that have purchased the pcb version I have pictured and these will still be shipped soon but then I will not be making anymore of the through hole version. If anyone out there wants to "pr-order" the smd version of this that would be a big help. I could then start purchasing all of the components I need.