A couple of Sega Saturn issues.

Ok, well my Saturn is working perfectly normal now, but I have an issue trying to modify it in order to do the swap trick. Everywhere I read and every video I've seen, the switch to tape to make the system think the door is always closed is on the bottom where the board is. Mine does not have that. It is a model one with the oval buttons, I can find no information on how or what to tape in order to fool the Saturn so that it thinks the door is closed. Does anyone know what to do with this specific revision?

Also, my original Saturn controller behaves really weirdly. While playing a game, Virtua Fighter 2 for instance, sometimes when you press left on the d-pad, it will cause the 2nd player to enter the game, as if someone pushed start on the 2nd controller. This happens even when there is no controller connected to the 2nd port. It has always done this, and odds are I just need a new controller. The only other controller I have is the 3D one for NiGHTS, which I do not own and have never played. What, if anything, can I do to fix this? It feels weird to play the two games I have with that controller, I would really like to play them with the normal one.

On a side note, are there any other games that utilize the 3D controller?

Thank you for your time,

Mike.

sounds like the contacts on your controller or the controller port may be dirty, unless of course the NiGHTS controller works OK, then something inside the controller may be amiss. I find similar things will happen with defective clone systems like the earlier issue FC Twins and stuff, most likely from a bad solder joint or something causing incorrect signals (that's my best guess, anyway).

As for the swap trick...I don't know, never tried it. Get a round button and mod chip it, that's the best way. Then again, I did that and it's STILL my least used system by far. Of every system I've ever bought, I think the Saturn is the one I'm most likely to sell.

http://www.racketboy.com/retro/2006/...wap-trick.html

There's some info on the Model 1 swap trick for you.

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Originally Posted by TheRollingStoner

On a side note, are there any other games that utilize the 3D controller?

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"Outrun" uses it.

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Originally Posted by Baloo

http://www.racketboy.com/retro/2006/...wap-trick.html

There's some info on the Model 1 swap trick for you.

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Yeah, I've read that before, doesn't have anything about my revision of the model one I have. The part you have to tape is not where it says it is. I'm not sure if this model can be taped. It's all good, they do say that doing that will wear out the motor, so it might be best if I don't do it at all. I would like to get a modchip installed, but I don't think I could do it myself, is there anywhere I could send it to fix it?

Thanks guys.

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Originally Posted by TheRollingStoner

Yeah, I've read that before, doesn't have anything about my revision of the model one I have. The part you have to tape is not where it says it is. I'm not sure if this model can be taped. It's all good, they do say that doing that will wear out the motor, so it might be best if I don't do it at all. I would like to get a modchip installed, but I don't think I could do it myself, is there anywhere I could send it to fix it?

Thanks guys.

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wear out the motor? god dammit people post ridiculous shit on the internet (not you, whoever said that originally). Why on god's green earth would disabling the lid-closed safety switch wear out a motor?

Unfortunately, the oval button Saturn is either impossible to modchip or extremely difficult (can't remember which). Buy a round button one, you won't regret it. Getting a loose Saturn in working condition can't cost more than $20~$30.

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Originally Posted by 17daysolderthannes

wear out the motor? god dammit people post ridiculous shit on the internet (not you, whoever said that originally). Why on god's green earth would disabling the lid-closed safety switch wear out a motor?

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IDK man, all I know is that I ran into that little tidbit just about everywhere I read about it, It never made any sense to me. I just don't wanna ruin my Saturn.

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Originally Posted by 17daysolderthannes

Unfortunately, the oval button Saturn is either impossible to modchip or extremely difficult (can't remember which). Buy a round button one, you won't regret it. Getting a loose Saturn in working condition can't cost more than $20~$30.

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From what I understand, to modify a model one, first you need to actually modify the modchip for a model two, even then they say it is hard to install and may not even work then. If anything, I'll either get a model two for the swap or see if I can get someone to mod a model two. I could buy the games legit, but they're too expensive.. I still don't understand why that is. The only thing is that I got an iso for Another World AKA Out of this world for the Saturn and would really like to play it.

Thanks again.

EDIT: 300th post. WOO HOO!! Anyone notice I've been posting much much more than usual? I don't know what's happening to me, but I LIKE IT.

I got a pretty strange problem with my SATURN 3-D pad, I took the thumb stick apart 5 MONTHS AGO and still never figured out how to re-assemble it. Please tell me a single person on this site knows how to put the thumbstick back together :mad:

Stop bumping ancient threads.

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Originally Posted by Blades

Stop bumping ancient threads.

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Easier said then done, as buddy can't start new threads yet. But way to give a warm welcome. I'm sure this is the ticket to this forums growth. :p

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Originally Posted by Toasty Costanza

I got a pretty strange problem with my SATURN 3-D pad, I took the thumb stick apart 5 MONTHS AGO and still never figured out how to re-assemble it. Please tell me a single person on this site knows how to put the thumbstick back together :mad:

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If nobody here can help you, I suggest you buy another one and pay more careful attention when you dismantle it again on how to put it together again. Maybe even get a video recording to be safe. Then after having both together and working properly again, sell the more worn out one.

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Originally Posted by Toasty Costanza

I got a pretty strange problem with my SATURN 3-D pad, I took the thumb stick apart 5 MONTHS AGO and still never figured out how to re-assemble it. Please tell me a single person on this site knows how to put the thumbstick back together :mad:

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How much of the 3D Pad did you take apart? The Saturn 3D Pad's joystick is much like the Dreamcast stock gamepad joystick so the biggest thing that separates the Saturn 3D pad and Dreamcast gamepad from others is they use magnets instead potentiometers. Sega is the only controller maker to use Hall Effect sensors. These tiny black boxes sense the proximity of the magnets in the pad inputs and vary their voltage throughput accordingly through the process of induction, then the controller's chip converts this voltage to a signal the console can work with. It's a simple and functional design, with fewer mechanically linked parts to wear out or break down. The joystick is basically an inverted bowl with a magnet attached to it. As the bowl is tilted in any direction the magnet moves closer to one sensor at the same time it moves farther from another. The joystick has a spring assembly is clipped to the PCB, but has no electrical or mechanical contacts to the sensors. A spring returns it to center, the same way the spring in an arcade joystick does.

http://nfgcontrols.com/grafx/Saturn-3D-nipple-2.jpg
http://nfgcontrols.com/grafx/Saturn-3D-nipple-4.jpg

Like the N64, it has no particular preference for the up/down/left/right compass points. Where the Playstation and Xbox use two potentiometer sensors, one for vertical and one for horizontal movements, each with its own return-to-centre spring, the Saturn 3D pad has a single spring for all directions. Without this twin mechanism design the nipple moves with the same ease in any direction.

http://nfgcontrols.com/grafx/Saturn-3D-nipple-3.jpg

The Saturn 3D pad also uses hall-effect sensors in the analogue triggers. A single magnet attached to the swinging end of the analogue trigger arm moves past two sensors mounted on a vertical sub-PCB. The Dreamcast uses the same mechanisms, though it replaces the nipple with a more traditional analogue mushroom stick.

http://nfgcontrols.com/grafx/Saturn-3D-trigger.jpg

I hope the photos can help you get your Saturn 3D Pad back together. I don't have one at the moment to take apart and than give you a step by step How To put it back together and I haven't worked on one in a while. Edit2: Sitting here thinking about it the white base plastic retainer just clips to the PCB as shown in the first photo and in the third photo one can see how the second and yet a third (that has the magnet) white plastic retainer with spring up inside the hollow of the stick with the wider end positioned against inside held in place with nubs of hollow of the stick.

Edit: And Blades I'm going to have to agree with Thief about Toasty Costanza posting in this thread.

AFTER 5 MONTHS PASSED I DECIDED TO TRY AGAIN AND IN 15 MINUTES FINALLY FIGURED IT OUT!

Eyedeeno76 thanks for taking your time and helping me, re-looking at the 3rd picture made me realize something. If anyone has this problem I might be the only person on the internet who knows how to do this, in the past 5 months I slaved around multiple half-ass websites and asked multiple youtubers about it and got nothing AND FINALLY DID IT AND I REGAINED MY INTEREST IN MY SEGA SATURN.

There is only one more thing I ask of this site to do for me and that is for someone to tell me
A: Why does the lid open button get stuck on my model 2 sega cd.
B: HOW DO I FIX IT?

Thanks to everyone and sorry for ""Bumping" this "Ancient" thread"

No worries in bumping ancient thread, since you can't start new topics anyway, and... I honestly don't care if others bump ancient threads or not, since I always use Sega-16 science to go to recent posts anyway.

Happy to have helped you out.
The open button on the Sega CD probably just needs to be cleaned in that you will need to take the Sega CD apart and take the button out clean all around the button with glass cleaner and toothbrush than wipe with a cloth. Maybe clean the whole Sega CD shell and blow out the dust. After cleaning if the button still not free enough put some vinyl protectant (Armor All) on the side of the button wherever it rubs. Hell, hit whole Sega CD it will make it shiny new again. Also, sometimes I will use white lithium grease on internal plastic moving parts that I apply with a small paintbrush like the ones used in hobbies.