Options for RGB Encoders?

[Guntz]

When I say RGB, I mean the kind you get from arcade boards, not home consoles.

Just scratching the surface, I've found these:

http://www.arcadeplaying.com/rgbntsc/index.php
www.jrok.com
www.neobitz.com

Mighty expensive, but I can understand why.

I have mainly two questions for now:

1) Out of the 3 I linked to, which do you think is the best? Quality Vs. price.
2) Are there any other options to choose from? Preferably lower priced so I have some choice between quality and price.

[GohanX]

I only have experience with the Neobitz, but the component video is fantastic, but keep in mind it was designed specifically for the Neo Geo boards, so it has been known to have issues with other boards, or require tinkering.

Jrok seems to have better compatibility with other stuff. I've never heard of the boards in the other link, but it doesn't have component video out so that kinda sucks. On the other hand, it uses screw terminals so it's wouldn't require any soldering or wire splicing, which is always a plus.

[Guntz]

Well, to make things easier, all I really want in a video encoder is:

+ Compatible with Neo Geo
+ S-Video is fine with me
+ Needs to be inexpensive, comparatively speaking

To be honest, the Arcadeplaying encoder looks right up my alley, but $80 shipped is, IMO a tad high. If the S-Video is ultra clear like others have said, it sounds more worthy of it's asking price. I was wondering how you'd apply the RGB/power cables to it. Screw on sounds really convenient! The less soldering the better! (but not none at all, 'cause then something prolly won't work)

[Guntz]

Hate to double post, but I also found this in my travels:

http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cv-.../prod_253.html

I suppose this is on the very low end of spectrum. It doesn't have audio pass-throughs (no big deal) and it needs an AC adapter. That could be remedied by soldering +12v wires to the solder joints under the jack on the solder side of the board, yes? No idea what the quality of the video output is like. Hmm, still undecided.

EDIT: Didn't notice it already comes with a cable suitable for connecting to the arcade board or your PSU. It really doesn't sound that bad to be honest. :\

[0x15e]

I've heard this one gets the job done pretty well and it's much cheaper: http://www.arcademvs.com/ARCADE_ACESSERIOR.htm

If you could find a NeoBitz-S, those work well for your purposes but I can't find any for sale.

If you were shooting for a more universal Supergun encoder, I'd say go with the JROK.

[Guntz]

Ooh! Another option! (in the link) Thank you very much.

Not sure if I'm reading it's page right, but it takes between 8 and 5 positive volts. Hopefully it would still work with only 5 volts. I was thinking if I could eliminate the need for +12v, I could use a single 5v 3A AC Adapter instead of a huge PC power supply.

[electrochip]

email jeff from neobitz, I think the neobitz-s (s-video only) kit is $35 and $50 for one already put together, it will work great for the Neo and other arcade boards.

[0x15e]

Ooh! Another option! (in the link) Thank you very much.

Not sure if I'm reading it's page right, but it takes between 8 and 5 positive volts. Hopefully it would still work with only 5 volts. I was thinking if I could eliminate the need for +12v, I could use a single 5v 3A AC Adapter instead of a huge PC power supply.

You can run the Neobitz and JROK encoders from 5V as well. Consolizing an MVS board (sounds like that's what you're doing) can definitely be done with no 12V line.

[Guntz]

email jeff from neobitz, I think the neobitz-s (s-video only) kit is $35 and $50 for one already put together, it will work great for the Neo and other arcade boards.

Hmm, $50 doesn't sound too bad. I'll definitely keep him in mind. I hate to be a cheap ass, but unfortunately I'm running an inexpensive ship here. Not to mention, my tastes really don't demand a high pricetag, so I don't see why I should go absolute top dollar.

You can run the Neobitz and JROK encoders from 5V as well. Consolizing an MVS board (sounds like that's what you're doing) can definitely be done with no 12V line.

Very nice to hear. So do I need to make a lot of modifications to the board in order to bypass the need for +12v? Or are there no adjustments necessary? Like say no +12v and the sound is just not amplified?

Speaking of which, since I'm using a board that I can barely find any modding info for, I want to play it safe and just build a supergun like device, instead of going directly with a consolization procedure. A super gun would cover all my bases easily except for stereo sound, but that is stupid easy to wire up on the main board.

If I use a Jamma harness to wire up the power and such, I will have much better odds of not frying the board. As I said, I can't dig up much info for this board in particular, so I have no idea where I would supply +5v power outside of the Jamma port.

Anyway, as for my other question. I like the idea of an ATX PSU already having lots of ground and +5v connections. With a 5v 3A AC Adapter, it only immediately provides 1 ground and 1 +5v. Would I just be able to gang wire all the 5v lines from the Jamma harness to the power jack for the AC Adapter? I don't see why I couldn't, but I thought I'd check. Last thing I want to do is fry this board from not hooking up the power correctly.

[JDB]

Hate to double post

BAN!!!!!!!

Nothing is important enough to double post!!!



(except maybe anything Joe has to say. I love Joe)

[0x15e]

Very nice to hear. So do I need to make a lot of modifications to the board in order to bypass the need for +12v? Or are there no adjustments necessary? Like say no +12v and the sound is just not amplified?

You need to modify the board. Check the tutorials section on Jamma Nation X for some good howtos.

Based on the rest of that post, you need to do a couple things:
1. Get an account on the neo-geo.com forum. It can be a rough group but their tech section is REALLY useful for what you're doing. I'm "Murray" on there. Look me up and I'll help out however I can.

2. Post exactly which board you have. Use HardMVS for a reference if you need to.

Since you're doing a supergun instead of a consolization, I'd recommend that encoder from Yaton (Arcademvs) or a JROK. You will eventually want to run other boards on it and it'll get really frustrating really quick when most of them don't work with the Neobitz's S-Video.

Also, forget all about just using a single-line 5V 3A power supply. Either use an ATX supply or get a real arcade power supply (my first one was ATX - It gets the job done but it's ugly). You will need to build a signal attenuator circuit to get the amplified speaker-level sound down to line level so you don't fry your TV's speakers. If you can't use the headphone jacks from your MVS board for stereo sound (if it has them), you'll need two audio attenuators and a switch on your SG to switch between JAMMA mono and MVS stereo.

Edit: That jammaboards encoder looks to be about the same as the Yaton one. It'll get to you quicker because it doesn't ship from Canada but you'll pay a little more.

[Guntz]

You need to modify the board. Check the tutorials section on Jamma Nation X for some good howtos.

That's what I thought I remembered hearing. The closest thing to my board in those howtos is the MV-1FS / MV-1F, but mine is just an MV-1. Don't ask me why I chose an MV-1, I'm doing this inexpensively. I don't care if it's as big as a boat, that means it'll be easier to work with because the components are bigger.

1. Get an account on the neo-geo.com forum. It can be a rough group but their tech section is REALLY useful for what you're doing. I'm "Murray" on there. Look me up and I'll help out however I can.

Alright. So just copy all I've said in here, clean it up a bit and post it there? Again, I would rather just do a supergun instead of a consolization because there is less risk of killing the board.

2. Post exactly which board you have. Use HardMVS for a reference if you need to.

It's the MV-1. Copying from above, don't ask me why I chose an MV-1, I'm doing this inexpensively. I don't care if it's as big as a boat, that means it'll be easier to work with because the components are bigger.

Since you're doing a supergun instead of a consolization, I'd recommend that encoder from Yaton (Arcademvs) or a JROK. You will eventually want to run other boards on it and it'll get really frustrating really quick when most of them don't work with the Neobitz's S-Video.

Alright, sounds good. I think the Yaton (or in the below quote, the jammaboards encoder). But to be honest, I was really only expecting to use a Neo on this thing. Though, you never know...

Also, forget all about just using a single-line 5V 3A power supply. Either use an ATX supply or get a real arcade power supply (my first one was ATX - It gets the job done but it's ugly).

Sounds good to me. I was expecting to use the ATX supply because it's way easier. I would have gone with the AC Adapter if it would mean this set-up would be less messy (I suppose not in this case).

You will need to build a signal attenuator circuit to get the amplified speaker-level sound down to line level so you don't fry your TV's speakers. If you can't use the headphone jacks from your MVS board for stereo sound (if it has them), you'll need two audio attenuators and a switch on your SG to switch between JAMMA mono and MVS stereo.

Dumb question, does using the headphone jack signals negate the need for that attenuator circuit? My board indeed has headphone capability (no actual headphone jack though oddly enough).

Edit: That jammaboards encoder looks to be about the same as the Yaton one. It'll get to you quicker because it doesn't ship from Canada but you'll pay a little more.

Ah, okay. So that Yaton one ships from Asia then?

Thanks a crapton for all the help 0x15!

[0x15e]

That's what I thought I remembered hearing. The closest thing to my board in those howtos is the MV-1FS / MV-1F, but mine is just an MV-1. Don't ask me why I chose an MV-1, I'm doing this inexpensively. I don't care if it's as big as a boat, that means it'll be easier to work with because the components are bigger.

Use what you want. Won't get any judgement from me.

Alright. So just copy all I've said in here, clean it up a bit and post it there? Again, I would rather just do a supergun instead of a consolization because there is less risk of killing the board.

Yes. You may not be able to post right away, which is why it's best to make the account as quickly as possible (so when you have a major question, you'll be able to ask in a timely manner). I agree that a SG is a safer option.

Dumb question, does using the headphone jack signals negate the need for that attenuator circuit? My board indeed has headphone capability (no actual headphone jack though oddly enough).

Yes. If you use a 1/8" to RCA y adapter from the headphone jacks, you can ignore the sound connections on the JAMMA edge entirely, until you find another PCB you want to use.

Ah, okay. So that Yaton one ships from Asia then?

Most of Yaton's stuff ships from Canada though sometimes it's China. Jammaboards ships from the US, I think.

[Guntz]

Use what you want. Won't get any judgement from me.

I can imagine I'd get harshly judged by other places. This IS the internet you know.

Yes. You may not be able to post right away, which is why it's best to make the account as quickly as possible (so when you have a major question, you'll be able to ask in a timely manner). I agree that a SG is a safer option.

Well that makes sense, but I can't imagine running into a huge problem. A SG is pretty simple from what I see (just connecting wires inside a box really). Besides, I hate signing up for new forums. Just another password I have to remember.

Yes. If you use a 1/8" to RCA y adapter from the headphone jacks, you can ignore the sound connections on the JAMMA edge entirely, until you find another PCB you want to use.

SWEET! Excellent news! This project is sounding easier and easier every day.

Most of Yaton's stuff ships from Canada though sometimes it's China. Jammaboards ships from the US, I think.

Well that doesn't sound too bad. I am in Canada after all and stuff tends to take forever to ship from the US for me.

Again, many thanks for all the awesome help 0x15.