SNES vertical line issue

[Miyamotos RGB NES]

Those are all ceramic capacitors not resistors.

Wait...where I placed the red arrows aren't resistors?

I only have access to that particular mobo on the photos I have made. I don't have other SNES versions. But theory is same regardless of mobo version.

Yeah a big part of the problem is no one ever found schematics for a 1 PPU SNES. There's this one for the 2 PPU SNES:

http://i.imgur.com/2XS6fLC.png

but as far as I can see, there's no pinout diagram for the 1-CHIP/single PPU SNES. Which is a shame because it has superior picture quality.

[Drakon]

Wait...where I placed the red arrows aren't resistors?





Yeah a big part of the problem is no one ever found schematics for a 1 PPU SNES. There's this one for the 2 PPU SNES:

http://i.imgur.com/2XS6fLC.png

but as far as I can see, there's no pinout diagram for the 1-CHIP/single PPU SNES. Which is a shame because it has superior picture quality.

Most likely what was there before were surface mount resistors. He removed them for experimentation, discovered it changed nothing, and replaced it with the same strength resistors.

You don't need a pinout of the onechip ppu I posted on my forum the pinout of the encoder chip used in the onechip ppu pcb so you can tap everything you'd need from the encoder. This includes the rgb inputs on the encoder, sync in, and even color subcarrier in. I found two solutions for it. 1: Wire up a cxa2075 application circuit to the encoder inputs, the cxa2075 is able to filter out the translucent bar, and this chip outputs both amped rgb and encoded s-video. 2: Wire u a ths7314 rgb amp to the encoder inputs. I've never done option 2 but the people I told to do it said it also removed the translucent bar. For shits'n'giggles I wired up a cxa1645 to the inputs and that encoder still had the translucent bar, go figure.

[Miyamotos RGB NES]

Most likely what was there before were surface mount resistors. He removed them for experimentation, discovered it changed nothing, and replaced it with the same strength resistors.

You don't need a pinout of the onechip ppu I posted on my forum the pinout of the encoder chip used in the onechip ppu pcb so you can tap everything you'd need from the encoder. This includes the rgb inputs on the encoder, sync in, and even color subcarrier in. I found two solutions for it. 1: Wire up a cxa2075 application circuit to the encoder inputs, the cxa2075 is able to filter out the translucent bar, and this chip outputs both amped rgb and encoded s-video. 2: Wire u a ths7314 rgb amp to the encoder inputs. I've never done option 2 but the people I told to do it said it also removed the translucent bar. For shits'n'giggles I wired up a cxa1645 to the inputs and that encoder still had the translucent bar, go figure.

That's pretty cool but TmEE's guide, once we figure out how to apply it to a 1CHIP, is way easier than buying cxa2075s from Japan and then wiring those things in. I think most of us here have all sorts of capacitors all around the house!

The ths7314 inside an SNES is another great solution but it means you'd still get the translucent bar over s-video.

For now, since there's no pinout sheet available for the 1CHIP, I guess my best bet to figure out where VCC is going to in the 1CHIP PPU which is labeled U1 here

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...02Picture3.jpg

would be by checking for continuity from the 5v output of the power regulator, and then touching pretty much every pin on that chip in the photo so I know which ones are VCC. I'll write down all the numbers of the 160 pins I check and report back here with my findings on which ones show continuity with the 5v output of the regulator. Unless someone can think of a better way? I would use a similar method with detecting which pins are ground on the 1CHIP PPU since TmEE reports those needing caps as well.

Then, it seems as if TmEE is saying that we simply have to place a cap on the VCC and ground lines going to the 1CHIP (the closer to the 1CHIP, the better). Since the 2 PPU schematic shows 4 VCC pins for each PPU (2 PPUs total), and 4 VCC pins for the CPU, I'm going to say there will be anywhere from 4 to 12 VCC pins on the 1CHIP, though I won't know for sure until later tonight. I will report back what I find though!

[TmEE]

The stuff near the arrows is unrelated to this particular mod. I have those to adjust RGB level for my custom cable.

[Drakon]

That's pretty cool but TmEE's guide, once we figure out how to apply it to a 1CHIP, is way easier than buying cxa2075s from Japan and then wiring those things in. I think most of us here have all sorts of capacitors all around the house!

The ths7314 inside an SNES is another great solution but it means you'd still get the translucent bar over s-video.

For now, since there's no pinout sheet available for the 1CHIP, I guess my best bet to figure out where VCC is going to in the 1CHIP PPU which is labeled U1 here

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...02Picture3.jpg

would be by checking for continuity from the 5v output of the power regulator, and then touching pretty much every pin on that chip in the photo so I know which ones are VCC. I'll write down all the numbers of the 160 pins I check and report back here with my findings on which ones show continuity with the 5v output of the regulator. Unless someone can think of a better way? I would use a similar method with detecting which pins are ground on the 1CHIP PPU since TmEE reports those needing caps as well.

Then, it seems as if TmEE is saying that we simply have to place a cap on the VCC and ground lines going to the 1CHIP (the closer to the 1CHIP, the better). Since the 2 PPU schematic shows 4 VCC pins for each PPU (2 PPUs total), and 4 VCC pins for the CPU, I'm going to say there will be anywhere from 4 to 12 VCC pins on the 1CHIP, though I won't know for sure until later tonight. I will report back what I find though!

The cxa2075 outputs sharper s-video than the built in encoder in the system anyway. It's like killing two birds with one stone, I think it's worth the extra effort. Also your connectivity text might also beep with ground since the board decouples vcc and ground together. I use a crappy homemade probe, maybe a proper multimeter doesn't do that.

Darn you and your onechip model 1, I'd really like to get my hands on one of those.

[Miyamotos RGB NES]

The cxa2075 outputs sharper s-video than the built in encoder in the system anyway. It's like killing two birds with one stone, I think it's worth the extra effort. Also your connectivity text might also beep with ground since the board decouples vcc and ground together. I use a crappy homemade probe, maybe a proper multimeter doesn't do that.

The 1CHIP outputs such a great image that I doubt anyone is going to go through the incredible effort of wiring in a completely different encoder. The capacitor fix TmEE is knowledgeable on would be sufficient for most anyone, especially 1CHIP users.

Also replacing the encoder isn't really "solving" the issue; adding in the capacitors does. Replacing the encoder only "gets around" the issue, so when TmEE gets around to posting what has to be done, everyone will be able to get rid of it. Not everyone is capable of a full encoder replacement, especially one you have to order for Japan and typically buy in bulk at $10 a pop.

Darn you and your onechip model 1, I'd really like to get my hands on one of those.

They're not that hard to find! Look on eBay for SNES systems that show the serial number. If it starts with UN3 it's probably 1CHIP.

[Drakon]

The 1CHIP outputs such a great image that I doubt anyone is going to go through the incredible effort of wiring in a completely different encoder. The capacitor fix TmEE is knowledgeable on would be sufficient for most anyone, especially 1CHIP users.

Also replacing the encoder isn't really "solving" the issue; adding in the capacitors does. Replacing the encoder only "gets around" the issue, so when TmEE gets around to posting what has to be done, everyone will be able to get rid of it. Not everyone is capable of a full encoder replacement, especially one you have to order for Japan and typically buy in bulk at $10 a pop.



They're not that hard to find! Look on eBay for SNES systems that show the serial number. If it starts with UN3 it's probably 1CHIP.

I wired a new encoder into my snes mini which is a onechip. The s-video is noticeably sharper. It wasn't as terrible as you make it sound. Thanks for the serial number tip.

[MinaseTaki]

If it helps at all, I have a PAL SNES that has the vertical line when using composite, but with RGB it disappears completely. So yeah.

[Terpor]

I have both US and the Super Famicom and i only see the yellow line on the US Snes but not in the Super Famicom.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLJeQ...ature=youtu.be

[MaxWar]

I just reduced the bar by AT LEAST 75% just by adding a Big ass Capacitor right across the regulator output.
I know that TmEE made a more "precise" fix for this, that I have not yet tried, but just goes to show that brute force works.
Thats basically the easiest, cheapest, dirtiest fix yet it works pretty well.

Whatever causes the bar transmits it at least in good part through the 5v rail, that seems obvious.

I used a 4700 uf @10v ( huge can ), basically the largest capacitance cap I had on hand, and just soldered it there on the regulator.
BAM!
Middle vertical bar almost gone.

[armando92]

I just reduced the bar by AT LEAST 75% just by adding a Big ass Capacitor right across the regulator output.
I know that TmEE made a more "precise" fix for this, that I have not yet tried, but just goes to show that brute force works.
Thats basically the easiest, cheapest, dirtiest fix yet it works pretty well.

Whatever causes the bar transmits it at least in good part through the 5v rail, that seems obvious.

I used a 4700 uf @10v ( huge can ), basically the largest capacitance cap I had on hand, and just soldered it there on the regulator.
BAM!
Middle vertical bar almost gone.

interesting, i got i similar result but just used two 22uF and one 0.1uF capacitor after the regulator with a 1000uF, a 2200uF and a 0.1uF capacitor before the regulator. Fun thing is that i wasnt even trying to get rid of it, i was trying to get rid of the weird static sound in the audio (that actually was fixed by using a better power supply).

[MaxWar]

interesting, i got i similar result but just used two 22uF and one 0.1uF capacitor after the regulator with a 1000uF, a 2200uF and a 0.1uF capacitor before the regulator. Fun thing is that i wasnt even trying to get rid of it, i was trying to get rid of the weird static sound in the audio (that actually was fixed by using a better power supply).

Hehe, very similar too me. I added that cap originally to see if it would help with a buzzing issue when using the GBA-SNES AD adapter.
It did not help the buzzing but I then realized it really helped for the bar.