Easy SNES/SFC YUV component video!

[Ace]

Since you don't like UTSource.net, I take it you never looked there? That's where LastCallHall got his encoders from. Hang tight, though, if I can get a prototype PCB manufactured and sell a small test run of fully-built converters, I'll quote you for one such converter with just the circuit itself assembled.

I just did this easy component mod on a SNS-CPU-GPM-02.

At first i connected green on pin 23 of the S-ENC but the image, while sharp, looked too bright and washed out.
I switched It to pin 7 of the AV out, its better.

The colors are still different from s-video, Im not sure which one i prefer. S-video felt warmer.
I guess ill play with it a little more, with different games.

That's an inherent flaw of the BA6592F and BA6594AF (the latter is what the S-ENC encoder is - a rebadged BA6594AF), from what I can see. Colors with high saturation look terrific, but the rest look like the color temperature was brought way down.

Certainly did not help for the blasted vertical bar in FF III though.

It really shows when you mod a console with a BA6592F or S-ENC to output Component, but I only see it on grays on my SHVC-CPU-01 Super NES. The rest shows nothing.

Did anyone successfully do this mod on a 1chip Snes?? By transplanting an encoder or something? Sry if this has been discussed before, I do not feel like reading the whole 24 pages of thread. ( i read a good part though )

The S-RGB and BA6592F/S-ENC have different pinouts, so you would need a lot of work to get Component working on that. It would be simpler to just wire up a BA7230LS in an external box (or inside the console, if you want) and run the RGB from the Super NES into the box.

[Ace]

WHAT IS WITH THE FORUM TODAY?! I try to post a response 4 times and the previous 3 times, the post is said to be under review by a moderator.

Drakon, if I can get a prototype PCB manufactured and sell a small test run of fully-built converters, I'll be sure to send you one without any of the plugs.

I just did this easy component mod on a SNS-CPU-GPM-02.

At first i connected green on pin 23 of the S-ENC but the image, while sharp, looked too bright and washed out.
I switched It to pin 7 of the AV out, its better.

The colors are still different from s-video, Im not sure which one i prefer. S-video felt warmer.
I guess ill play with it a little more, with different games.

That's an inherent flaw of the BA6592F and BA6594AF (the latter is what the S-ENC encoder is - a rebadged BA6594AF), from what I can see. Colors with high saturation look terrific, but the rest look like the color temperature was brought way down.

Certainly did not help for the blasted vertical bar in FF III though.

It really shows when you mod a console with a BA6592F or S-ENC to output Component, but I only see it on grays on my SHVC-CPU-01 Super NES. The rest shows nothing.

Did anyone successfully do this mod on a 1chip Snes?? By transplanting an encoder or something? Sry if this has been discussed before, I do not feel like reading the whole 24 pages of thread. ( i read a good part though )

The S-RGB and BA6592F/S-ENC have different pinouts, so you would need a lot of work to get Component working on that. It would be simpler to just wire up a BA7230LS in an external box (or inside the console, if you want) and run the RGB from the Super NES into the box.

[Chilly Willy]

You probably included a link in the post - the board seems to have a spam filter that's ridiculously sensitive to links.

[MaxWar]

That's an inherent flaw of the BA6592F and BA6594AF (the latter is what the S-ENC encoder is - a rebadged BA6594AF), from what I can see. Colors with high saturation look terrific, but the rest look like the color temperature was brought way down.

I tried putting a 500 ohm Trimpot on the Luma line that goes to Green. It really seems to help. Default image was a bit too bright. Lowering it also makes the image appear warmer and it looks better Imo.

When i reach a point where i think the color looks nice however, the image is little darker than with S-video and S-video still appears yellower, ( when comparing interior of house in FFIII. )

Maybe by using a 1 transistor amp + trimpot on each of both color lines and keeping the trimpot on green I could adjust the image for better balance and brightness? Ill do more tests.



Also, I have one of those older SHVC-CPU-01 SNES, Is this the model where the encoder output is too weak and you need to amp the output?

[Drakon]

Thanks man I don't need it assembled I just want the parts I'll solder it together myself. I'm just too lazy to source these parts.

[MaxWar]

OK guys I think I fixed the Color balance and brightness issue on my component mod here!

I did several experiments.
Firstly, turns out there is a pretty large DC offset on the Chip output ( Red and blue ) Which makes the screen flash nastily when you connect/disconnect the cables live.
I used 220 uf caps and it filtered it out. No more flashing.

Then i went and made a simple transistor amp for each of RED and BLUE. For some reason the CAPS interfered here so i removed them.

With amp on RED and BLUE and removing the trimpot on GREEN the colors and Brightness were GREAT!!!

Seriously its really beautiful now.

I compared with two TV side by side, I adjusted them so Image, color and brightness were pretty much the same.

Then i had the Modded SNES and a Stock SNES run the same screen of Super mario world.

I would say the color and brightness are roughly the same on both, only one is Component and clearer.
I made the whole thing on a breadboard and could switch a wire to bypass the amp ( Stock mod )
It immediately turned the image Fugly washed out.

This is pretty cool but there is one problem left. I still have the nasty DC offset on the Output, and i think its made worse by the amp. I need to filter that crap out. What kind of Cap or setup should i use?

I still do not understand why without amps my 220 uf caps worked well but after the amp they kill the signals, as if they blocked most of it.

At this point my fairly limited knowledge of electronics fail me.

Edit: Pic

[Drakon]

Uhm, I didn't know using a cap before a transistor amp would make any difference.

[burn654]

Hi there, I'm currently building an RGB to component box using the BA6592F. I've hooked it up to a 5VDC power supply and attached a scart input. I was having some problems so I rebuilt it, focusing mainly on the luma line/amp first.

The system I've been testing with is a US ntsc Dreamcast, with a SCART lead (upon checking, it's wired for Composite sync to pin 20 SCART, not composite video) and I'm having sync issues with my SD 36' Trinitron. I get a relatively correct intensity black and white image off the luma channel (amped with an NTE85 transistor) but the sync is...weird. It'll be stable in some places/resolutions but not others. I'm testing with Crazy Taxi, US version.

-It feels like the C-Sync input to the chip has no influence on the sync. I can disconnect it and get the same picture. Wut.
-I can tie pin 20 on the scart plug to my scart color lines and get varying stabilities of sync...for instance tying it to green gets the Dreamcast menu completely stable, tying it to blue gets the 'Sega' letter animation in Crazy Taxi stable. But then the in-game menus will be unstable unless I tie it to a different line. It's almost like high concentrations of those colors get a little more stable if they're given the sync line.

So my thoughts were...is this chip actually expecting Composite Sync or sync over Composite Video? My messing around with tying sync to the r,g,b lines feels incorrect and I haven't had a '100%' stable combination yet. (for instance, game menu would work with it tied a certain way but then gameplay got messed up, and vice versa).

Given that my cable is Composite Sync would running composite video into the chip help? (and letting the chip get sync info from that.) How about adding a sync stripper to that idea? I feel like I'm so close and yet so far...my next test I think is going to be getting a lead for a console that does sync over composite video.

[Ace]

That sounds like the biggest problem I've had with the BA6592F and the main reason why I switched over to the BA7230LS. The encoder's sync input tends to be pretty screwy, so what you can do if you can't get Composite Sync working through the encoder is to take the signal from your SCART connector and wire it up like I did on the BA7230LS-based RGB to Component converter: mix it with Luminance using a 2.2Kohm resistor before the transistor amplifying the signal. See if that helps at all.

[jhonny2]

Hi. I have the SNES PAL (RUS), I'm trying to make the component mod, not does not work. I'm not sure that this is the same chip - BA6592F. Can't find the information on your chip. I hope to help.
Here is the information on the SNES
SNSP-CPU-02.
E-SENC A S 9528 BA
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/1268/61511134.jpg

[Ace]

You have an S-ENC A chip on that console. The amps for B-Y and R-Y are completely unnecessary on this encoder; just straight wire the signals from the chip to whatever you will use to output Component. The only part you need is a single 75ohm resistor for Luminance (wire it up to the Luminance pin on the S-ENC A).

[jhonny2]

I tried to join directly to pin 1-23-24. Unfortunately my TV and AV receiver do not see the signal. I thought that chip the other or has a different numbering pin.
Sorry for my English = translate.google

[jhonny2]

Here is the mistake http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=74 Here it is written
Pr (red) went to pin 1
Y (green) went to pin 24
Pb (blue) went to pin 23
And in fact Pb (blue) is 24, and Y (green) - 23. Therefore, the signal was not.
Today soldering Pb (blue) to pin 24, Pr (red) to pin 1, and Y (green) pin 7 multi out. The component works, but not enough of paints. I'll try to let Y through the resistor 75 ohms.

[epicfatigue]

Hello Everyone!!!!

First off thanks to everyone above i totally live for this stuff (although i am a noob and i do not claim to be a pro at all)

I am about to try a mixture of things making an encoder for my consoles that are stuck with RBG.

And i have pumped ace with a few questions.


I am about to try something new however and i thought i would share it with everyone and ask for advice (ie could this work would this work am i an idot etc etc etc)


So i am going to take multiav out RBG+SYNC from my SNES (RBG Encoder) i am going to feed it into my BA6592F like so

Sync to Pin 8

MultiAVOut R -----)1uf|-----------------pin20 BA6592F
|560ohm-GND

MultiAVOut G -----)1uf|-----------------pin21 BA6592F
|560ohm-GND

MultiAVOut B -----)1uf|-----------------pin22 BA6592F
|560ohm-GND



Then i was going to take it out of the encoder like this.


1 BA6592F -- OPA360 -- 75ohm ---- RCA

24 BA6592F -- OPA360 -- 75ohm ----- RCA

23 BA6592F -- 75ohm (this may need adjusting) --- RCA

OPA360 would be wired as page 12 fig 15.


Link to data sheet http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe...WN/OPA355.html


Now dont flame me i am simply trying to understand.....

My reason as to why i believe this would be the ideal way to go.

Assuming you are using the RBG and you wire a BA6592F as per page 15 of http://mikejmoffitt.com/BA6592F.pdf

I hear people talking about the colors being half a strong as they should. is this due to pin 23 already having a 6DB amp inside the chip, would placing a OPA360 (6db amp (3.3V)) solve this problem?
I am going to try it either way i just wanted to hear peoples thoughts?

Thanks All for listening no doubt i will edit this as i am at work and have completely unchecked everything i have written!!!

[Drakon]

I did this already with a ba6594f, colours looked completely off.