Sega CD systems repair thread

[RCSRex]

*copy paste warning*

Hey everyone. I am having problems with my Model 1 Sega CD. We've found some problems (probably all of them), but we are not sure what to use to replace these parts


KNOWN SUSPECTS:

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In the metal plate BELOW the CD tray, there is a broken piece of plastic (see video.)

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The (cam gear??) below the tray that moves the tray is jamming. Whenever you try and close the CD tray, the (again, cam gear, not sure if that is the correct term) will stop turning, and you need to apply force physically with your hands to open/close it. (see video)
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THAT DAMN HELIX/ARCHIMEDES SCREW.

http://i.imgur.com/TptgI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VVV09.jpg

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Everything else but these 3 things are working well, at least thats what I have seen. The system will turn on and load the BIOS. It is verison 1.10. The sound is ok, the video is ok, etc etc. BUT you can not open the tray because of these problems I have told you.
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Also, does anyone know how to completley remove the CD tray from the bracket?
^ Thanks, omp!

Cheers,
Sam B
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(also i quickly skimmed through all 7 pages to please excuse me if i skipped a fix. if you need any more info on my sega cd please dont hesitate to ask me, thanks)

[MEGADRIVE Jeroi]

It seems your problem is the helix screw...

[RCSRex]

It seems your problem is the helix screw...

Yep, put some hot glue on it, gonna let it dry a day and try to file it to the correct dimensions... but what about that broken piece of plastic on the video at 1:27? what can I use to replace that?

[hasnopants]

Well, I am going to attempt a repair on the power supply board this weekend that is fried completely first. I will report back when finished. I will be replacing the fuse, 7805 VR, and all caps on the board.

[MEGADRIVE Jeroi]

but what about that broken piece of plastic on the video at 1:27? what can I use to replace that?

Easy fix, harvest plastic from some box or old toy. Clue with epoxy and should give very strong part again. Epoxy is like plastic but more harder to handle after usage. I would recommend epoxy to helix screw fixes also. Will give you more permanent fix than hot clue as it tends to lose it's strength over time.

Well, I am going to attempt a repair on the power supply board this weekend that is fried completely first. I will report back when finished. I will be replacing the fuse, 7805 VR, and all caps on the board.

While you are on it, please report which model, which laser drive and cap list of the power board and so on.

[Foxix]

You must have a lemon 32X, or got paranoid with reseating the cables and now the sockets are loose. You should get another 32X. I have one (VA0, yes, bottom board too) and it works fine. I haven't opened it up in ages and it still works, no issues at all. In fact, if I shake it or the Genesis/32X unit, it doesn't freeze.

It was definitely a lemon. I never reseated the cables without first testing to see if the last adjustment worked. Not really surprising haha. I got it for free in a box of electronics that a thrift store was getting rid of. Also I'll be sure to note my setup in the future, sorry for the confusion. I never would have thought that the 32x could cause weird disc read issues.

The only other problem I'm now having is that it makes this weird "zipping" noise sometimes. Usually it's right after the disc tray has closed, but it can sometimes happen while the disc is being read. Generally happens when I die and get kicked back to the title screen in Sol-Feace. It reads the discs fine now though haha.

[MEGADRIVE Jeroi]

The only other problem I'm now having is that it makes this weird "zipping" noise sometimes. Usually it's right after the disc tray has closed, but it can sometimes happen while the disc is being read. Generally happens when I die and get kicked back to the title screen in Sol-Feace. It reads the discs fine now though haha.

Answered in FAQ If model 1 in use there are those cd assembly holder springs. Give them a bit stretch. Other propblem may be bad contacts on lens push switch. Sand it and clean with acetone to get proper continuity. They should fix zipping noise for good.

[Foxix]

Answered in FAQ If model 1 in use there are those cd assembly holder springs. Give them a bit stretch. Other propblem may be bad contacts on lens push switch. Sand it and clean with acetone to get proper continuity. They should fix zipping noise for good.

Oh wow, awesome! I don't think I saw that the last time I checked the list. Thanks a bunch! I'll check it out

[Drakon]

It was definitely a lemon. I never reseated the cables without first testing to see if the last adjustment worked. Not really surprising haha. I got it for free in a box of electronics that a thrift store was getting rid of. Also I'll be sure to note my setup in the future, sorry for the confusion. I never would have thought that the 32x could cause weird disc read issues.

The only other problem I'm now having is that it makes this weird "zipping" noise sometimes. Usually it's right after the disc tray has closed, but it can sometimes happen while the disc is being read. Generally happens when I die and get kicked back to the title screen in Sol-Feace. It reads the discs fine now though haha.

Man you have no idea how finicky the 32x can be. Right now I have two s-video modded 32x machines. One I hard wired the ribbon cables, the other the ribbons are loose. The hard wired one starts every time without issues, the ribbon cable one I need to re-insert it a few hundred times and wiggle it around just to get it going.

[MEGADRIVE Jeroi]

Admin can remove or move these 32x messages from this thread. Thread is Optical consoles only thread. Then remove this message when done. Thanks.

[Drakon]

Anyway today my first segacd showed up. First the cd tray was too low inside of the case causing every cd to scratch. I raised the tray using some foam and that fixed that. This thing reads music cds fine (burned ones too). I burned final fight with a taiyo yuden cdr at 16x, I only got the game to start a few times, most of the time I just get to the screen with sonic shooting stuff followed by it freezing. Also the music cds I tested all the way to the last track they were fine. Do I need a new laser or something?

haaaalp

[omp]

Which model of Sega CD did you get?

Is it a model 1 or 2? (Sounds like model 2 if you spaced the drive up with foam?)

Can you identify which drive you have?

I am betting you have tried cleaning the laser?

I have never burned Sega CD games before, but I am lead to believe the games like to be burned at a sssslllllloooooowwww speed.

[Drakon]

Which model of Sega CD did you get?

Is it a model 1 or 2? (Sounds like model 2 if you spaced the drive up with foam?)

Can you identify which drive you have?

I am betting you have tried cleaning the laser?

I have never burned Sega CD games before, but I am lead to believe the games like to be burned at a sssslllllloooooowwww speed.

Tiido says he burns at 16x and it works fine (same speed I burn at). I'm using a sega cd 2. How do I tell what laser I have? I'm thinking the laser needs a replacement.

*edit*

I have the JVC Optima-6

[jriquelme]

Hi, im jriquelme
Im console modder and harcore gamer collector from Paraguay (can check fb.me/jriquelmemods and fb.me/MandiocaGamer.py )

Sorry if my english is poor-

I recently got a Sega CD Model 2.

My problem is: If i use my Sega CD and Play by hours, it will be FIne... BUT, if i leave my console, for exaplme playing Snatcher, more than 15min of innactivity, my Sega CD will HANG and Freeze. And if i Power Off and On again, mu Sega CD will not Read my disc Again.

Or if i playing for about 2hs. Turn off my Sega CD, and come back again to play after few minutes, it will NOT READ MY DISC again.

To read again, i need to disconnect all for about 1 or 2 hours. And then, i can play, but will happen all what i say again.

What can be the problem? Can be the Laser Lens?

I can hear "click" of the Lens, but the CD will not Spin.

Hope some one can hlp me.

And, where i can Buy the CD Lens if it is the problem. Can i use some lens from a Saturn=?

Thanks.

Sega CD Model: MK-4102A

[omp]

Could *possibly* be a capacitor problem (warming up/cooling down). May need a re-cap. MK-4102A, I haven't redone mine yet, looks fun though as there is a lot of SMD stuff on the underside of the board...