Consolized GG custom made case... thoughts?

[omp]

You wire it straight to the cart slot connector. In that link I have above it shows the pins that require connection. In this instance we are keen on lines
SMS PIN
SMS Signal

Sorry if I had actually READ it I would have understood I didn't give the full information.

We also need to add the info from Tim's website (not going to pinch his picture).

http://members.iinet.net.au/~stinkyf...sfm/smsfm.html

If you scroll down to "SMSFM Solder Pinout" and match the SMS Signal to the SMS cart slot, you will go "ah son of a bitch I see...."

You see Tim sell's 2 versions of the board, one with a cart connector for model 1's which plugs into the model 1's expansion port. The other he sells without the cart connector which is for model 2's and has to be soldered in as per his instructions. The only thing I don't know is where on a GG you would add the output connection (where you remove the capacitor in a Master System). I am actually not sure if you could actually install the his FM board "inline" with the game cart connector. So by that I mean cart connector in console, FM board, then plug in the game into the FM board... That is a question I will have to ask.

On another note I have sourced 5, 50 pin edge connectors with side mounts to suit the master system games. Also a cheaper illuminating latching switch, these I got just to bump up the price as the company offer free shipping over a certain amount. Better I get something, rather than pay for postage and pay the same amount lol!

[Drakon]

Oh okay so it taps a bunch of stuff from the cartridge connector and outputs the audio which gets mixed by wiring it into the console audio circuit.

[MaxWar]

$13 for the illuminated one. I should be able to recess this switch as well.

What!! 13$ a switch?! Thats insane. Ill be going to my local electronics surplus store tomorrow, im sure i can find equivalent for pretty cheap. Ill try to take pics.

[djshok]

Wow! That design is a thing of beauty! I sure hope these eventually get made.

[omp]

What!! 13$ a switch?! Thats insane. Ill be going to my local electronics surplus store tomorrow, im sure i can find equivalent for pretty cheap. Ill try to take pics.

The joys of living in Australia mate.

The other one's I got late last night, where I got the 50 pin edge connectors from were $2.80 each. They are 240v, but I am hoping they can be stripped down and a LED put in place. I am also not sure if they are latching.

If all else fails I have an account with Jaycar's supplier, so I could get them at wholesale prices (the $13 illuminated switch).

Edit the suppliers price is about $9 each

[xelement5x]

I might give it more of a model 1 feel, but I think having a headphone jack on the case would be nice. Also, if there was a headphone jack with slider it would balance out the case a bit more.

[brainerdrainer]

crazy

[djshok]

I'd have to disagree about the volume slider, those things are wicked dust trap. I say keep it sleek.

[Drakon]

I don't mind cleaning mine..

I'd have to disagree about the volume slider, those things are wicked dust trap. I say keep it sleek.

[omp]

Worked on it for a few hours last night, but didn't get to far. AutoCAD crashed on me a few times, luckily through experience I do a few things and hit save....

I beefed up the case a bit, it was about 2mm thick material, bumped it up to 4mm which is about the same as a medium size project enclosure (SMS1 case is about 2.5mm). Beefed it up a bit to make the case more durable. This took a while, as AutoCAD isn't the best for modelling, everything takes a bit longer to do.

Modified around the GG cart slot, it no longer has that sharp leading edge, also realised I made a boo-boo and had to trim back on the inside where the GG connector is. Before the case would have to be put on as the GG connector would be inside the cart slot opening. Now the case will simply drop down onto the bottom case.

Have moved the power and audio boards into the gap where the screen used to be (where I had the controller ports). This means that the connecting cables from the main board to the audio and power boards won't need to be lengthened. On the power board the DC socket, Battery terminals (won't need them anyway) and switch will need to be removed to give a bit more room. This won't be a problem as the DC socket can be moved to the back (ie re-used) and we are adding a new power switch anyway.

The controller ports, DC socket and AV holes have been filled in.

I measured up my old Rev 1 FM Expansion board (I swapped out the one in my SMS2 for a Rev 1.1 as it has better compatibility eg Time Soldiers and WB3 which won't work in a GG as it is missing 2 of the signals) and attached that to the bottom of the SMS cart connector. There is room for a FM board as at this time the Rev 1 board is slightly bigger. I say at this time as Tim has a new revision coming soon. I have to confirm with Tim (I have to send him a picture of what I am thinking) about installing the FM board directly onto the cart connector. So by this, the cart will essentially plug straight into the FM board and all the signals required will be tapped off the bottom of the FM board to the GG. Tim is also as yet to confirm where on the GG you put the FM boards output signal, he says he will do that when he gets time.

I am thinking with the start switch to do a bit of a dodgy (lol!) On the back of the GG main board (behind where the D-pad is) is a big empty pad. I am thinking a tactile switch could be attached (ie hot glued in place) and simply have a strategically placed button on the top part of the case for the action. This will be good/better for two reasons. 1/There will be NOTHING attached to the top part of the case, it will simply sit on top of the bottom case (isn't the LED on a Mega Drive model 1 a pain?). 2/I won't need to make any extra brackets etc (sweet!).

Not sure about a volume slider, this is getting pretty involved as it is. What I can try is, there *maybe* enough room to swing the audio board around and have the GG headphone jack and volume dial at the front of the console. So the order will be from left to right, power on switch, headphone jack/volume dial, controller ports. If worst comes to worst, I could move the power board back to the back of the console. If I do this I will have to reduce the material thickness so that the jack and dial actually stick out enough.

Bloody hell I may have bitten off more than I can chew here....

*edit the switch I got, the illuminated one lights up fine on the 9v rail on the GG power supply.

[Robivy64]

This thread gives me a diamond-hard chub.

A consolized Game Gear is a childhood dream come true.

I personally dig the horizontal loading case design.

I can't wait to get my GGTV in the mail so I can get to work.

[omp]

Ok I have done some more today (enough for today lol!).

The bottom half of the case is a bit taller than I would like, as I have made allowances for those that like 90 deg DE9 connectors, it is only 5mm, but that extra will probably help with the switch anyway. I have added the stand offs for the 90deg connectors. The straight through connectors can be screwed in from behind (nothing suss) as the plastic is 7mm thick (so very short screws could be used).

I have radius'ed all the edges by 0.5mm so no sharp edges.

Unfortunately my plan about rotating the GG audio board is a no go (not easily anyway). This is because the GG has rounded edges the volume dial is further in than the headphone socket. If people want to add a headphone socket, there should be enough room.

To fit the control pad connectors into the case, the power board will have to have the DC socket and switch removed, again no drama as they won't be used anyway. The tallest capacitor on the power board should be ok (sits under the GG cart slot) as the power and audio boards dit lower. The headphone socket will probably have to be removed as well, but the dial can stay.

The stand offs (posts), I plan to leave blank and will be drilled manually. I have made the posts sizeable to allow for the "fudge factor".

Between the top and bottom case there is a lip for lining of the 2 halves.

1/Power switch
2/Power port hole
3/AV port hole (thinking of just doing a pilot hole and then people can drill to suit 8 din or 9 mini-din
4/Stand off's for the all the boards.
5/Start Switch
6/Probably something else....(hopefully not start again as I have already clocked up 15+hrs already).

[MaxWar]

About the volume slider, I'd skip that. I even think i would rather have the volume wheel completely removed and replaced by some resistance to get the line level just right anyway.
This project is already complicated enough, headphone jack+ volume is just a useless bling bling imo.

Also, I looked at some power switches at the electronic store today. I have no variant that is push and latch + LED...
They have zillions of types of Toggle switch, Rocker switch and slider switch but almost nothing push and latch...

However they have these rock switch with 12v LED, available in Blue, Red, Orange. I kinda like them. (1.99$)
But honestly Im not sure i see them in a GG custom case. I still prefer the one you have already but then... 13$? That's just obscene.

[omp]

I have some other rectangular switches on their way, they were $2.80+gst each.

[Thamiel]

Hey mate, loving this project. Just joined to say if you need any help with knocking up some vectors for decals or any design work you need for this let me know. More than happy to help, PM me if your keen to see some of my design stuff. Done quite a bit of work for people on NintendoAge and NeoGeo.com.