Ammatour and independent "small time" reviews are the best cases I've seem . . . albeit you have to know where to look for actually well-done articles or videos, there's obviously tons of crap there too.
Personally, for a real review (not something purely for comedy), I much prefer someone who actually takes the time to try to like a game and make a realistic evaluation of the good and bad, with realistic and useful criticism. They should note if it's a genre/style that they're personally not partial to, and keep that in context in the review as well.
Working some humor into that doesn't hurt either.(still a different context than an actual "review" for comedic effect)
Game Sack and Classic Game Room have legitimate reviews in general, and manage to work a decent amount of humor in there too. Obviously the latter has gone far more commercial than it once was, and some people aren't fond of the reduced percentage of classic games being reviewed, but OTOH, reviewing modern games was always part of the Classic Game Room formula too. (prior to CGRHD)
Honestly, Mark Bussler is sometimes too forgiving at times, but he still tends to make valid criticism at least, and I much prefer that to blatant bashing beyond sense that many commercial reviews include. That, and he's at least consistent, and you get a good feel for his perspective in general (so long as you avoid "undertow").
Mark's reviews are particularly interesting to see in terms of games/platforms that typically get negative reviews, and to see a more balanced perspective on things. (both for modern and retro reviews)
As far as the big-name sites, I still use IGN as a general reference, but certainly not as a definitive review resource. (actually reading the review gives a good idea of how competent the reviewer actually is, as well as possible bias -even if they don't specifically make note of that bias as they should)


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