Im curious if any mods (more specifically svideo mod) disable my genesis from 32x i seen a post on another site a while back saying something to that degree or is it just mods being poorly executed?
Im curious if any mods (more specifically svideo mod) disable my genesis from 32x i seen a post on another site a while back saying something to that degree or is it just mods being poorly executed?
"Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."
32x receives RGB from the genesis. If a 32x is plugged into an svideo genesis, it should be simply unaware of the mod.
(unless the svideo mod was performed by removing the composite+RGB DIN. doing so will render 32x inoperable on the genesis in question).
But a related issue is that 32x and master system are incompatible. At least without additional modding.
A genesis svideo mod by itself, won't work for 32x games.
A 32x svideo mod by itself, won't work for Master System games.
Of course you can svideo mod both if necessary. Alternatively, try bypassing it by using an external svideo converter.
Last edited by lumclaw; 05-23-2017 at 03:38 AM.
Hello, I need a new power supply for my Mega-CD II (PAL) and I found that on ebay but like it's not official stuff, I was wondering if that was good and safe or if there was any hidden downside?
100-240 v France plug / Europe, EU Plug
9 v 1 A
Negative polarity inside
Meets the specs. Negative tip, 9V DC, and the amp rating should be sufficient. The original is rated for 1.2A.
Thank you. I read you can use the power supply of a Master System 1 and the specification says 1A.
SMS, Genesis/MD1, and both Sega/Mega CD variants all use the same power supply. The 10V version of the Neo Geo AES also works with this power supply. The 32X and Genesis/MD2 use power supplies with lower amp ratings and positive voltage on the tip/center. Barring the Neo Geo, I don't have any other Japanese systems, and I have no European systems, so off the top of my head, I can't say if other systems or variants use compatible power supplies.
Could You please tell me exactly lenth for Sega 32x ribbon cables. I have one without it and need to find some replasemants. It seems like 20pins with pitch 0,5mm shood be fine. I have two options 6sm and 10sm to order.
Hi guys,
New member here just starting out with repairs and I'm reaching out to the community for a problem I'm having a lot of trouble finding info for. I couldn't find it here anywhere. If it's here I apologize in advance as well as possibly not knowing the correct terminology.
Long story short, I got a "working" Sega CD model 2 that ended up needing a new laser. The pots on the main board were all out of tune as well.
I replaced the SOH-OT4 laser (w factory laser w original glued pot) and used ohm settings for the main board pots that I found on another forum (with the help of Google translate, and deep scouring of any sources available)
I used these settings with the board completely removed while using an ohm meter on the pot contacts underneath the board and finely dialed these numbers in exactly.
I consulted the repair manual for this model but it wasn't much help without the special tools required for Sega techs so I had to use a multi-meter set to ohm resistance.
Everything I tried in the system worked fine after I replaced the laser and dialed in these numbers on the pots so I was truly grateful for whomever posted that but I'm wondering, have any of you run across this issue or may be able to confirm these as at least pretty close to stock settings using ohm resistance? It's for the variant of the Sega CD model 2 that has the Samsung SOH-OT4 laser and main board in the pic above.
Thanks for your time! <3
A very simple question from a newb. I'm trying to to take off the heatsink off of a model 1 JP sega mega drive to look at the capacitors underneath. But it's stuck really hard to one of the 7805 regulators. What can I do to loosen the dried paste?
I would try a small flat blade screwdriver (2.4 mm) and work it between voltage regulator and the heatsink, maybe lightly tap the top of the handle of the screwdriver with something like another small screwdriver straight down in between the heatsnik voltage reg. if it gave me a hard time. Could also try a small amount of isopropyl alcohol one use to treat cuts in the skin to re-hydrate thermal compound. You will need to replace this old thermal compound with new when you go to put all back together.
Last edited by EyeDeeNo76; 06-27-2017 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Blade size
Thank you! That worked. Started by cleaning the excess paste from the edges of the 7805 with isopropyl alcohol, then I prodded gently with a small flat blade screwdriver. The heatsink eventually came off. I'll be sure to remember to put new paste when I put it together. Have already cleaned the old paste off from both 7805s and the heatsink.
Hi all, I am new here (took me a while to be able to post) and I own a small but awesome game console collection. My highlight is without doubt my Sega Megadrive + Sega CD (mk1) + Sega 32X combo that I've been playing on for years. At some point it just stopped working, the machine boots up but gets stuck at the BIOS screen (as is not uncommon) and refuses to do anything. Once in a while the lights on the machine light up, but usually they dont. The CD tray does open with some persuasion, but that's about it!
This has nothing to do with the Megadrive or the CD inserted. I've also replaced the power supply. A friend of mine has already recapped and replaced fuses on the Mega CD but this didnt help at all. I need some pointers to be able to sort this out. Is there anyone here who actually managed to repair a mark 1 Sega CD with this issue?
Since you all like pictures I have included a picture of someone's Sega CD with a similar issue. It was either that or a picture of my cat, sorry.
segacd.jpg
Please help. I really want to get this machine fixed up.
So just recently, I noticed that my Model 1 Mega Drive has some distortion when playing music. It's more noticeable when playing Sonic 3's Ice Cap as an example.
I've checked most of the capacitors and from what I've seen(Having trouble removing the heat plate), I can't find any signs of leaks or the cap tops elevated. Though underneath parts of the board is some kind of yellowish stain of sorts with no signs of corrosion or damage(Flux maybe?). I've tried 2 PSUs as well, the Aussie PSU I bought recently and the original Japanese one with Step Down Converter and the audio distortion is still present.
Reading the post about the Mega Drive models, apparently the VA2 I have:That said, is the distortion that I'm hearing a result of owning a VA2 MD or could it be something else? If it is the former, would it be worth installing a Mega Amp or would that be overkill?will be clear with very high bass and is prone to distortion with loud games due to excessive gain on the preamp.
I have a Sega Genesis Model 1 VA2 HDG Non-TMSS. It's an original launch console from 1989 and i have a question. Is it normal for VA2's to have low sound in RF Output but loud sound on AV? Also Sometimes my VA2 freezes randomly. Is it proably time for a recap or a cartridge cleaning.
Here is my board: Attachment 13390
Chaos Fusion - There is not always signs capacitors are bad they can dry inside and appear normal.
mariostar82 - With an Coaxial Radio Frequency Switch everything is mashed together the video picture and sound than the television needs to unpack this information and transmission of microwave signals/RF energy from console to the television stuff gets lost in this process and also depends on how good the television is at doing so.
Always try the easy stuff first. I would clean the cartridge slot and the games.
Using attachments on vBulletin can be tricky I suggest imgur or Postimages.
Last edited by EyeDeeNo76; 08-05-2017 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Added Chaos Fusion to the post
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