Ask general Genesis/MD/Sega CD/32X questions here (for new members)

[Titchgamer]

So this will be my last update on my odd problem I think.
So the company I brought the faulty replacement from sent me out another console free of charge and even allowed me to keep the faulty one!
So tops to them for that, They have givenme excellent customer service tbh so if you are uk based I will happily recomend them.
Company was Games connection.

Any who I fitted the replacements replacement and everything seems to be working including micro machines!!

So I took apart the original faulty one and took a pic of the board out of interest I notice the one chip has a redcross on it!?

As games connection allowed me to keep the one with the faulty power adapter and it seems a shame to shelve it over a faulty power port I will take it to work tonight and see if its something repairable like a dry joint or something.
Failing that I coukd possibly take the good port offmy original MD and solder it to the faulty one making a good one out of the 2.

We shall see.....

Thanks again for the help guys.

Attachment 13750

[edit:]

The reason I ask, is I noticed that VA2/2.3 systems with bus/68000 problems typically have major graphical glitches/lockups with games made using Virgin's Cool Spot engine. I was wondering if that extended to other revisions of the Model 2 as well.

Out of morbid curiousity, does the problem MD2 have a Hitachi HD68HC000?

Apparently not that I can see.

[TheWraith]

Need help with my Model 1 SEGA CD (JVC laser version)

Everything works perfectly on it, except for the green "READY" LED, which never comes on. Red "ACCESS" LED works fine, disc tray perfect, discs read perfect, the thing appeared to be in immaculate condition inside and outside. (I don't know how to recognize if caps have been replaced or not though)

We were trying to test continuity on the resistors for the LED (which was unsuccessful because our multimeter sucks) and when we touched the green "READY" LED's legs, it illuminated green. So I don't think the LED is bad.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I would like to know the easiest way to get the LED to work properly, whether it is replacing resistors, transistors, (and where to buy them) or just running a wire and resistor above the traces to wherever it is supposed to go.

Thanks in advance. I can post pictures if necessary.

Edit: I am located in Maryland btw. If there is someone close to my area that is experienced with re-capping these things, I'd be interested in working something out.

[Chaos Fusion]

So I was recapping the Main Board of my Sega CD recently and everything was going smoothly until a drop of solder landed on the Golden Contacts of the Main Board. I've cleaned off the solder but the Gold seems to have been taken as well. Out of curiousity since the repairs could be a bit pricy but what are the chances of the board still working without the gold on the 3 damaged contacts? I'm a bit hesitant of powering it on in case it does damage to the board.
I will add my Japanese MD doesn't seem to have the gold on the contacts on the Expansion Slot Contacts yet it seemed to work properly before this happened.

[EyeDeeNo76]

Need help with my Model 1 SEGA CD (JVC laser version)

Everything works perfectly on it, except for the green "READY" LED, which never comes on. Red "ACCESS" LED works fine, disc tray perfect, discs read perfect, the thing appeared to be in immaculate condition inside and outside. (I don't know how to recognize if caps have been replaced or not though)

We were trying to test continuity on the resistors for the LED (which was unsuccessful because our multimeter sucks) and when we touched the green "READY" LED's legs, it illuminated green. So I don't think the LED is bad.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I would like to know the easiest way to get the LED to work properly, whether it is replacing resistors, transistors, (and where to buy them) or just running a wire and resistor above the traces to wherever it is supposed to go.

Thanks in advance. I can post pictures if necessary.

Edit: I am located in Maryland btw. If there is someone close to my area that is experienced with re-capping these things, I'd be interested in working something out.

So you are saying when you where test continuity (obviously with the board powered up) the green LED lighted up?
That is bypassing the problem on the circuit so the problem would be in between the points of contact of the multi-meter was placed.

So I was recapping the Main Board of my Sega CD recently and everything was going smoothly until a drop of solder landed on the Golden Contacts of the Main Board. I've cleaned off the solder but the Gold seems to have been taken as well. Out of curiousity since the repairs could be a bit pricy but what are the chances of the board still working without the gold on the 3 damaged contacts? I'm a bit hesitant of powering it on in case it does damage to the board.
I will add my Japanese MD doesn't seem to have the gold on the contacts on the Expansion Slot Contacts yet it seemed to work properly before this happened.

Could be you just tinned them (coated with a thin layer) and the nickel-gold plating is still under the solder. All is well unless you used sandpaper or some chemical to try to remove it? The only concern would be is there any solder in between creating a short.

[TheWraith]

So you are saying when you where test continuity (obviously with the board powered up) the green LED lighted up?
That is bypassing the problem on the circuit so the problem would be in between the points of contact of the multi-meter was placed.

No. I must be using the wrong words. The board was not powered up and my friend is the one with electrical experience. I know nothing except what I’ve read while researching this. He was testing the resistors with a cheap multi meter and it wasn’t working at all. He briefly touched the legs of the green LED and it illuminated a little. He couldn’t get any readings from any of the surface mounted resistors at all likely because of how cheap the multi meter is.

[Chaos Fusion]

Could be you just tinned them (coated with a thin layer) and the nickel-gold plating is still under the solder. All is well unless you used sandpaper or some chemical to try to remove it? The only concern would be is there any solder in between creating a short.

Had a look and seems the gold plating was indeed taken off with the solder. I don't think there is any solder between the contacts points luckily minus some flux residue from the braid i used to remove it. That said, I decided to be a dumbarse and hooked it up and it works for now so I'll look around locally for a repair service while it still works.

[TheWraith]

megacdld.jpg

So if I were to replace the resistor R5, which according to the service manual is 160ohm, 1/10 W, 5% tolerance, would any of these products work?

https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...yxpkfvZ1z0x6fr

The available products have a 50v and 75v "voltage rating." What does this mean? The service manual doesn't list a voltage rating for the part. Which one should I use?

Or should I look for a non surface mounted resistor and get one of those oval ones with the stripes painted on them and jump the trace? If so, what do I connect them to? I see they are fed from "VCC2" but I can't find it on the board.

[KuroXIII]

Hi, I have a rather odd problem with my Model 1 Sega Genesis (Non-hd if that changes things). It functions fine at all other times but if you try using a Master System controller (Genesis controllers work just fine) it acts as though the down button is being held. It's not the power base converter or the controllers since I tested them on a friend's Genesis and it all worked just fine. Opened it up and nothing appeared to be wrong

[Thunderblaze16]

You guys know where you can get the same kind of cable the Sega Nomad used to connect both boards together? Apparently the legs on these are more fragile than I thought, good thing I had a spare but still.



Would these work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-600mm-...EAAOSw3ZRY83gf

[infidelity]

Hello! I have a question regarding an issue with my VA6 model 1 Sega Genesis. I lost Master System mode.

I am unable to have Master System roms play on my system. I've modified it quite a bit. And I also use the Mega Everdrive X7.

I installed an RGB bypass board, bypassing the Sony CXA chip. So my R,G,B,Csync, all run through the board.

I also recapped my entire VA6, with a capacitor set I purchased from "console5"

And I've installed a NANO board, which has code to allow a hard reset of the entire system via button combination on a 3/6 button controller.

With all of that done, my Genesis & 32x display and function properly.

The only issue I have, is that when I try to run a Master System game, I'll get a black screen for about 3 seconds, then get kicked back to the Everdrive game list.

Now, I tried doing extensive searchings, and I came across documents regarding SMS mode. One mentioned 3 specific cartridge slot pins, 2 are for ground, but 1 of them called A21, is for the Vcc.

Now, in my quest for jailbar free image, I started clipping various pins of the Sony CXA. It's been a few months, so i don't know the pins off the top of my head. But I believe that I cut the pin known as "Vcc 2"

My question is, if Vcc is cut from the Sony CXA, is that what is causing my system to not boot into Master System mode? Cause I looked up what the Vcc is, and it contains power. So I'm wondering if this is the culprit?

If the Sony CXA is NOT the reason, then could anyone point me into the direction(s) as to where to begin my troubleshooting to get Master System mode functioning again?

Thank you for reading!

[infidelity]

Is there anyone that can help? :-(

[Eep386]

The Sony encoder shouldn't affect the operation of Master System games. That said, you really shouldn't cut traces unless you know for absolute certain what you're doing. Did you cut any traces not related to the encoder? Have you tried re-connecting the traces you cut?

I trust your cartridge slot is clean too? I have this home-brew Master System adapter that is *extremely* finicky about the slot; absolutely clean or nothing.

[infidelity]

Thank you for responding. I'll focus my attention elsewhere from the Sony CXA. I made sure to cut only the required traces for all the mods I did. The ones that I did on the fly, we're various legs of the Sony CXA, to try to further diminish the remaining vertical lines.

Would an incorrect capacitor cause an issue?

[EyeDeeNo76]

Could you post photographs of the pads?
Do they say SEGA MK-50100 on bottom of them?

[EyeDeeNo76]

They're official Japanese SGEA Dreamcast Controllers.

Edit: But different revisions/model year.

Edit2:
"I'm guessing these had been built from multiple controllers, I just wonder which D-Pads are supposed to be in them originally"
Whichever D-pad sits level with the face half when installed.