Ask general Genesis/MD/Sega CD/32X questions here (for new members)

[revival of death]

If you mean with the hissing noise that white noise when white is on background, that cannot be undone as it is asic noise and is fault of sega's chip. How ever everything else is gone with CCAM mod for md2 but that's for someone who understands schematics and know how to solder them.

This is only apparent in earlier revisions correct? or all? Is it annoying at all or does it only bother those who are super anal?


should I replace my encoder or is it fine

[roboblart]

I had recently bought a sega saturn off ebay and after playing sonic jam for a bit something odd happened. When I was playing sonic 1 and got invincibility, the music was absent. I thought it was the disc but then the saturn restarted and won't take any of the games I have. I'm guessing I need to open up the saturn to move the spindle up 1-2mm. What tools will I need to do this and if that doesn't work, what are some alternatives?

[Solkia]

I don't think it's a big deal really. I had one of those shitty non-HDG model 1s, and I never actually noticed the sound issues.

[BlockABoots]

Hi guys am new to this forum and this cannot create a new thread yet so am going to have to post in here, so please bare with me...

I got a JPN mega drive 1 console from eBay, Model No HAA-2510 so not sure what VA it is, but has the 'R' at the end of 'SEGA' on the bottom left corner of the console. The console had a hardwired R/F lead coming out the back upon opening the console up it would seem to be modded to give a 50hz signal via a r/f module wired inside, heres pics of the pcb....



Upon further investigation i notice that all the traces between the JP pads (for region modding usually) had been cut, i removed all the solder from these pads and a capacitor that was bridging 1 set of the jumpers....



i also removed the R/F module mod aswell as i shall be using a RGB scart cable. The console worked fine before this but now all im getting is a blue screen when i power the system on!, any ideas what the problem might be, i haven't bridge any of the JP pads so the console should default to US NTSC mode!?? Any help would be much appropriated as i understand the HAA-2510 MD1 were regarded as the best of the bunch!?, so would really like to get it working

[Drakon]

Jeroi to the rescue..

[BlockABoots]

Jeroi to the rescue..

Is he the resident expert on this then?

[Robivy64]

It won't boot with all of the pads cut. You need to bridge JP1 and JP2 for NA/60

[BlockABoots]

It won't boot with all of the pads cut. You need to bridge JP1 and JP2 for NA/60

Was under the impression if you don't have any connections done it should boot in American mode as the pins the "JP" points are connected too pull themselves high (ie +5v).??

[jacktorrance]

Does anybody know the part number of IC12 in the SEGA Genesis 2nd Generation? It seems a voltage regulator. Also, how can I tell if it isn't working ok? My problem is: I powered my SEGA Gen2 last week and worked up pretty good, but the power connector had some cold solder. I heated up the solder and plugged the power supply again, but now it doesn't works. Not even the LED works. I appreciate your help people...

Edit:

The voltage between In-Ground is around 1.5v. The voltage between Out-Ground remains at 0v. So I guess is the voltage regulator.... what should be the replacement?

[Drakon]

Like he said they need to either have vcc or gnd connected, leaving them floating won't work.

Was under the impression if you don't have any connections done it should boot in American mode as the pins the "JP" points are connected too pull themselves high (ie +5v).??

[tempusfugit]

edit: oooooh, a little more reading and I think I've realized my mistake... The guy I bought it from gave me an NES adapter, obviously AC-AC.. If my reading is correct I need a AC-DC adapter.. :sadface:

Here's hoping I(or him previously) didn't blow up the genesis.

===============================================

Hello,

I recently got a genesis off craigslist.. Came with 30+ games and controllers for 40 bucks, couldn't pass it up. Anyways, get it home, hook it up, and I get a black screen with white lines running up, no audio. Thought it was maybe the RF adapter, so tried the one from my NES, same thing.. Ok, maybe the RF out is jacked up, so I bought a a/v yellow and white cable off amazon.. Same thing, but this time it makes a buzzing sound as well. From reading online, I'm lead to believe this is a power adapter or voltage regulator issue.. I tried the power adapter that came with it and the one from my NES, both are 9V 1.3A. I've read online that I need a 9V 850mA adapter, but the bottom of the sega says 9V 1.2A..

I pulled it apart down to the board and inspected, no blown caps, no burn marks, nothing out of the ordinary.(I fix computers for a living, I've seen 100s of bad motherboards/blown caps, etc). Solder seemed fine on all ports.

Both power and RF adapters work fine on my NES.
This is a 1601, FCC ID FJ846EUSASEGA

Should I try for a new adapter or do you think my regulators are toast?? Should I get an 850mA adapter even though the bottom says 1.2A?

Thanks for any help

edit: I do have access to a multimeter at work if I can test the voltage regulators with that, but if I can find a fairly cheap adapter, I'd rather try that first if it has a good shot of working.

[evildragon]

Like he said they need to either have vcc or gnd connected, leaving them floating won't work.

It works floating on some consoles, but not recommended. All my american consoles when left floating boot to american mode.. But I highly advise AGAINST activity like that..

[Sektor]

I opened a Mega Drive 1 and this small metal part fell out: http://gtamp.com/images/md1-part.jpg

Where does it go? :P

It seems to go back together fine without it. There was also a feather in there but I'm happy to leave that out.

edit: Found it. Thanks.

[villahed94]

I opened a Mega Drive 1 and this small metal part fell out: http://gtamp.com/images/md1-part.jpg Where does it go? :P It seems to go back together fine without it. There was also a feather in there but I'm happy to leave that out.

It goes in the bottom shell, at the rear part of the console.

It won't boot with all of the pads cut. You need to bridge JP1 and JP2 for NA/60

Actually the internal flip-flops will have a default region even if those traces are gone. IIRC it's set by default at 60hz, can't remember if the default region is Japan or English. It's probably Japan.

Hi guys am new to this forum and this cannot create a new thread yet so am going to have to post in here, so please bare with me... I got a JPN mega drive 1 console from eBay, Model No HAA-2510 so not sure what VA it is, but has the 'R' at the end of 'SEGA' on the bottom left corner of the console. The console had a hardwired R/F lead coming out the back upon opening the console up it would seem to be modded to give a 50hz signal via a r/f module wired inside, heres pics of the pcb.... Upon further investigation i notice that all the traces between the JP pads (for region modding usually) had been cut, i removed all the solder from these pads and a capacitor that was bridging 1 set of the jumpers.... i also removed the R/F module mod aswell as i shall be using a RGB scart cable. The console worked fine before this but now all im getting is a blue screen when i power the system on!, any ideas what the problem might be, i haven't bridge any of the JP pads so the console should default to US NTSC mode!?? Any help would be much appropriated as i understand the HAA-2510 MD1 were regarded as the best of the bunch!?, so would really like to get it working

You can see some remnants of the traces. Just add small wires where the traces would go and you're ready to go.

[villahed94]

Does anybody know the part number of IC12 in the SEGA Genesis 2nd Generation? It seems a voltage regulator. Also, how can I tell if it isn't working ok? My problem is: I powered my SEGA Gen2 last week and worked up pretty good, but the power connector had some cold solder. I heated up the solder and plugged the power supply again, but now it doesn't works. Not even the LED works. I appreciate your help people...

Edit:

The voltage between In-Ground is around 1.5v. The voltage between Out-Ground remains at 0v. So I guess is the voltage regulator.... what should be the replacement?

The replacement is an standard 7805 power regulator. 1.5V at the input sounds too low. Did you check if the power brick works?

edit: oooooh, a little more reading and I think I've realized my mistake... The guy I bought it from gave me an NES adapter, obviously AC-AC.. If my reading is correct I need a AC-DC adapter.. :sadface:

Here's hoping I(or him previously) didn't blow up the genesis.

===============================================

Hello,

I recently got a genesis off craigslist.. Came with 30+ games and controllers for 40 bucks, couldn't pass it up. Anyways, get it home, hook it up, and I get a black screen with white lines running up, no audio. Thought it was maybe the RF adapter, so tried the one from my NES, same thing.. Ok, maybe the RF out is jacked up, so I bought a a/v yellow and white cable off amazon.. Same thing, but this time it makes a buzzing sound as well. From reading online, I'm lead to believe this is a power adapter or voltage regulator issue.. I tried the power adapter that came with it and the one from my NES, both are 9V 1.3A. I've read online that I need a 9V 850mA adapter, but the bottom of the sega says 9V 1.2A..

I pulled it apart down to the board and inspected, no blown caps, no burn marks, nothing out of the ordinary.(I fix computers for a living, I've seen 100s of bad motherboards/blown caps, etc). Solder seemed fine on all ports.

Both power and RF adapters work fine on my NES.
This is a 1601, FCC ID FJ846EUSASEGA

Should I try for a new adapter or do you think my regulators are toast?? Should I get an 850mA adapter even though the bottom says 1.2A?

Thanks for any help

edit: I do have access to a multimeter at work if I can test the voltage regulators with that, but if I can find a fairly cheap adapter, I'd rather try that first if it has a good shot of working.

If you used an NES regulator, the 7805s are most likely gone. The NES regulator outputs AC, while those 7805s use DC. Replace them and use a DC regulator.


(Double post, because it would make the prior one too big)